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Looks great! Might I suggest using a wood burner to darken the letters, so they stand out more.

That's about the going price around here. Craft beer is expensive.

Thanks! Once I eventually finish this project, I'll post a better picture of the shop. It's getting messier by the day.

There is 33.5" of space from front counter to back counter. There is 36" of space between cabinets (since the counter sticks out a bit). I had read before starting my project that 36" (or more) between counters is ideal, and 24" seems to be regarded as the minimum space between the front and...

Copper foil runs about $20 bucks for more than I'll use in a lifetime. WAY more expensive than aluminum, but a small cost in the long run. Either way, thanks for the suggestion of using foil to bridge to the shanks/lines. So far so good. Some of the shanks are touching the cooled copper line...

I'm a doctor, so I'll weigh in here. It's fun to speculate that fusel alcohols caused the hangover, and they indeed could have if the beer was brewed really hot and the OP couldn't taste them. However, dehydration is the real culprit in hangovers the vast majority of the time. Vitamin B (and...

I'll let you know once I get some beers on tap if I have any issues. Foil is a good idea... Though I'll probably use copper foil, since it will conduct heat a bit better. I'd rather overkill than underkill any day of the week! A new thread about foamy first pours from towers that aren't...

Each of the shutoffs on both manifolds have built-in check valves, so this isn't an issue for me, thankfully. On my last four-tap kegerator, I was using the same manifold with no issues. Thanks for the advice though. Great advice if the manifold doesn't have check valves, or there aren't...

Sure. Let me just tell my wife that a random internet dude is coming over! :D Yep! I already did that exact thing yesterday after checking the temp at various places in the keezer (after the pics, obviously). Much more even temperature distribution now. Thanks!

Good luck getting 50 batches in this year! That being said, I don't think a specific number of batches brings you from a novice to experienced. I think it depends upon the person, and how they brew. For example, if we take two brewers. Brewer 1 has brewed 100 batches of kit beer. He doesn't...

I got a bit more done today. I got the beverage lines in and the pipes leading to the "beer cave" insulated. I installed the second gas manifold for the soda as well. The beer cave is running about 5-6 degrees warmer than the main keezer. I'm hoping this will be good enough to avoid...

Depending on the form of Chico you're using (liquid vs. dry), and your OG, you may NEED a starter to avoid underpitching. Regardless, I usually make a starter for my dry yeasts as well a liquid ones, because I like to pitch at high krausen when the yeast are most active.

Low to mid-seventies.

Looks great!!!

Hahaha. Thanks guys.... I only wish I hadn't made the autocorrect error!

In the end, though, if you have to adjust your recipes to account for low efficiencies, and you still make good beer, I wouldn't worry about it. Nobody's going to drink your beer and tell you it tastes like you have low efficiency.

If you leave, for example, a gallon of trub in the kettle, that's a lot of gravity points that are then left unaccounted for. This is only true, however, if you only consider the volume in the fermenter when determining efficiency. You could have great mash efficiency, but if your volumes are...

In my experience, there was no difference between batch and fly. Most people find fly to be slightly more efficient.

My $0.02: 1. Tighten the gap on your mill. Most efficiency problems are due to grain crush 2. Check SG using both refractometer and hydrometer until you can trust your refractometer. Ensure your numbers are real. 3. When you say your efficiency, do you mean mash efficiency or brewhouse...

That's really too low for Belle Saison. I ferment my saison using Belle Saison in the mid-seventies, and many brewers regularly brew saisons well into the 80s.