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I have a black iron pipe gas manifold. It's a week old and already starting to rust. I'd like to treat it, cheaply if possible, to remove the rust and prevent future corrosion. Any ideas?

It depends on your utility rates, where you're living, etc. I can say that going with natural gas has cost me a LOT more than I anticipated. If you want to know for reals: price out EVERYTHING. Don't just ballpark it - itemize out every - single - thing. Also, if you choose to go...

That'll work well. There's also a kickstarter for something very similar going on right now.

Or having to pull so hard on the barb to remove the hose that, when the silicone hose rips off the barb, you send yourself flying backwards and bang your head. Note that I did that. Nope, like that'd ever happen. Dammit.

Good caveat about plastic fittings. Though about the O-ring bulkheads: those don't have an orientation anyway: tighten to appropriate degree. Then hold the bulkhead in place with one wrench while you tighten the valve or fitting till the cows come home with the other wrench.

Note about 3-piece and 2-piece ball valves: if you have a pipe wrench, you'll have no trouble getting ANY pipe fitting to correct orientation. Also, use the thicker yellow or orange pipe tape rather than the white stuff - when you take it apart, it won't shred and require annoying and time...

No. Double no considering that, for the most part, people will be using a fridge/freezer to chill the glycol itself. Glycol chill units are hella expensive. Advantages of using freezers: -far less setup work -efficiency (closed space) Disadvantages of using freezers: -space, since...

Even with gelatin, potassium sorbate, and potassium meta-bisulphate, yeast will STILL eventually wake up and dry out your sweetened cider over time. At least that's my own experience.

After killing my 2nd heat stick I have decided that figuring out some kind of design that integrates a float switch/sensor would be a good idea, so that if the stick isn't submerged, it won't fire up. Anyone seen something like this?

Acid works on galvanization coatings: 'tis a dramatic reaction. I should note that my previous statement about using Metal Rescue was in regards to removing mill scale and rust (not galvanization).

There are options to remove galvanization. Acids weak and strong (vinegar, muriatic acid, etc). Maybe some iron oxide removal agents. I'm using Metal Rescue at the moment, will report back on how that works.

The zinc will burn off. And poison you as it burns off. And also expose the mild steel underneath to rust.

Moar! Liquid manifold complete. Gas piping complete. Stand top is welded and will be in a chemical treatment bath tonight to remove mill scale and prepare for painting.

See I looked at POR15 Metal Prep and ended up getting Metal Rescue instead - Metal Prep leaves a layer of Zinc Phosphate, and Zinc isn't a good thing to subject to gas burner temperatures.

Sadly I can't remove the scale that sits on the inside of my stand's steel tubing and corrosion is rapidly setting in. I ended up buying some rust remover chemical that, theoretically, should remove not just rust but most iron oxides, so it might handle the mill scale as well. Failing that I'm...

Hi! I am finished with the welding of my stand. However the weld points are now rapidly rusting (hot rolled steel tube). I need to somehow remove the mill scale so that I can paint my stand with rustoleum. Anyone know how?

Hey look - progress!

I'm figuring out the gas plumbing for my brew stand. Looking to mate two banjo burners to iron pipe. Here's the question: It seems 3/8 flare and 3/8 female pipe thread are thread compatible. Can I use my regular orifice fittings (orifice x 3/8 flare) and attach them to 3/8 FPT, or do I...

Alpha acids don't isomerize below 170-175 degrees and thus there will not be any bitterness from your second addition. As for your first - it depends on the temperature and time. Beersmith's steep/whirlpool calculations don't seem to factor in temperature and instead assume "flame-out"...

I'm building it next week so I can't report on it yet. The Rustoleum itself is only rated to 2000F/1000C so I'm actually kind of concerned now. On the other hand, from what I understand there are many mild steel brew stands with rustoleum paint jobs that don't rust...so maybe it'll work...