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nice, tefon is cheap but knowing it doesn't leak is priceless

i just installe diy brass bulkhead thermo and sight glass combos on my rig and found out the ebay dial thermos turn independent of the probe so i need to get something good to calbrate them

let's hear it

if your affraid of leaks use a mix of dish soap and water to spray the threads and it will bubble if it leaking

where are you gettin the o-rings and what ae they made of?

i read palmers book and he talked about how to get rid of the lead in the yellow brass by using a sulution of peroxide and white vinigar. all my bulkheads that are on the bottom of the pots are teflonned and installed for leak testing. can i just uninstall them and dip the parts teflon and all...

nice, i think i might do something like this for my MLY an BK for the returns up top.

i would mig anything on a brew rig but post brew day gear would be beter left for tig imo, not that it couldn't be done but it cleaner and far more sterile

my father, my brother and i have been looking and its retarded. i have a few lazy freinds with them but i went AL weldless for now. you should try the fluxcore on some scrap to ge the feel first

first time i'm hearing about it, but thanks for making me aware of the stuff. did you look into the destructions or check teh manufactors website? they may let you know a bit more. but first or second hand experiance would be best. i thaught i needed to fill and check my extra 25# to get the...

thanks. i will be using AL pots so the lid will be too. A plus cause AL is softer then SS. Depending on the tapper in the pot it may not need feet at all. i will proly mark and center punch the holes before drilling. i'm still thinking about wether to use a jigsaw or cut off wheel...

normally you need tri-gas for stanless mig. the weld is far messier then tig and you can't do very thick meterial but a 110volt should handle all homebrew needs. you maybe able to get fluxcore for SS but i never heard of it. fluxcore leave a mess and is hard to weld with cause of all the...

problem solved - i will buy a cheap 15gal pot lid and cut to the size i need and drill the snot out of it. then use what ever size bolts and nuts SS to keep the bottom at the correct height and it will even have a handle for removal and clean up.

thats what i was reffering too. i would think after it recirced the mash would clear but i will be using a wide burner so my main consern is scorching

well i was gonna make a template and cut the false to size and then use the apropate length SS nuts and bolts after drilling thru the bottom to elevate it and make a low rise handle on top.

does anyone now? i'm thinkin of incorperationg their false bottem into my pot.

i plan on insulating my MLT but will proly still need to fire the burner periodically. i will be using 15 gal aluminum pot and 14-bg banjo. the system will be set to recirc during mash. should i go for a full false bottom or could a 11" round do the trick if it is kept centered? i want...

Yes either use a plasma cutter or drill a hole top and bottom and cutoff wheel the straight portoins to create the slots

well depending on how much gas my new rigs burns through i may consider a hybrid system. but i will still be stuck outside or in the garage

i'm really contomplating it for my mlt with some type of automation if my new single teir doesn't hold heat well, i'm still waiting on getting burners ordered up next week and misc fittings. i'll have to check my kw rate and way the pros and cons