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thanks for the help! I'm gonna run it through the auto-tune tonight

So when you auto tune, do you start the auto tune and then run it through an entire mash? (From heating strike water to mash out)

I'm using an auber syl-2352

I'm having a similar problem. My rims tube is set up correctly, but my mash temps are overshooting big time. Ill have the set temp at 152 and the temp reading will go up to 158, sometimes higher. And what's even more confusing is that the pid is still turning my heating element on when it is...

Reply! I'm in, gunning for that conical!

Just took my system for a test drive, I used 1.5 inch pipe fittings and the 1500 watt ultra low density element. My test with 5 gallons of water yielded a temperature change of 1.8 degrees per minute. Of course that's without any grain

Just got all my packages! The stainless is huuuuge. If your going with the ultra low 1500 watt element, you definitely don't need any longer then like a 4" nipple, the elemenet barely makes it past the end of the T

Just ordered all the stuff for the RIMS build, went with a 1 1/2 x 8" stainless nipple with a 4 inch liquid tight probe from auber (1/2" npt) and the ultra-low density element from plumbing supply. Can't wait for everything to arrive

What would be the consequences of inverting the placement of the heating element and the temp probe, so that the wort is hitting the probe first? Would that not increase the accuracy in terms of compensating for any heat loss in the cycle? Or would it possibly overcompensate? Or does it not even...

Where did you find a 4500 watt element that runs off of 120? Also, I think as long as the element was low density, it should be fine running dry, plus you should be more worried about ruining your $150 marsh pump from running it dry then a $15 heating element

Is the little giant self priming? Or is it pretty much the same thing as the standard march pump?