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I plugged your values into Bru'n water, with 50% RO dilution, and compared the final numbers to the pale ale profile. They come out pretty close, provided you add some calcium sulfate (gypsum). Targets: Ca=140ppm; Mg=18ppm; Na=25ppm; SO4=300ppm; Cl=55ppm Your water with 50% RO water and 1.90g...

You can also look at http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Effects_of_mash_parameters_on_fermentability_and_efficiency_in_single_infusion_mashing#Mash_thickness. It seems that thinner mashes can increase efficiency (depending on temperature), but attenuation is determined by the mash...

Thanks for the clarification! The supporter's version appears to mark the actual finished water adjustment green when it hits the mashing water profile, not necessarily when it hits the overall finished water profile. This works well if the mash and sparge have the same concentration of all...

I never realized just how different the free version is! I filled it out and compared to my version. It looks like the free version targets the overall finished beer with the "actual water adjustment", whereas the "actual finished water adjustment" in the supporter's version targets the mash...

I used Bru'n water for the amber ale I made recently. I used RO water and adjusted using salts. It was the first time I've used anything besides my tap water... and it tasted delicious! Used to have some background off-flavor in all of my brews, but no longer; I'm sold on adjusting my water...

I'm using Bru'n water 3.4. When I set "Add CaSO4 & CaCl2 to replace Chalk & Lime in Sparging Water?" to Yes, Excel gives me an error, "Excel cannot calculate a formula." and shows a circular reference: N14 (Finished SO4/Cl Ratio) points to G14 (overall water Chloride), which points to K20...

I whirlpool with my mash paddle, then rack from the side of the kettle. Though honestly, the more I read articles like this, the more I'm considering just racking the whole works to my fermentor. The trub will settle out at the bottom anyway, so as long as it gets formed in the first place...

Thanks! I also purchased a paint mixer, to use with my cordless drill, to keep the wort continually stirring around the coils. I tested the setup today with 6 gallons of boiling water. My tap water is about 50 ˚F. Ran the tap at full blast and stirred with my drill in the center hole of...

Decided to upgrade my wort chiller to this rib-cage style! Thanks for the instructions! A couple years ago I had made a real basic wort chiller from 20' of 3/8" copper tubing. Had lots of issues with it. It didn't cool nearly as fast as I'd like (took about 30 min at best to get to...

Just wanted to follow-up. Next time I'm going to try a white plate and see if I get different results. I think the chalk test was accurate though... after cold-crashing with gelatin and sitting in the keg for over a week the beer is still cloudy. Warming it up the cloudiness doesn't change...

Thanks for the information! It will be nice to periodically check the water I get and make sure the quality is staying consistent, but I'm certainly glad I got a cheap TDS meter and didn't spring for a more expensive one!

Ah, ok, so basically unless I'm only adding sodium chloride my TDS meter reading will never match up with my predicted concentrations. I assume other solids will change the conductivity, which will change the reading on the TDS meter, but the change won't correspond to the actual concentration...

I cold crash all my beers. Should I just rack the whole works then? I'd rather not waste any beer if I can help it, so if the trub really isn't an issue, I should be able to just rack everything into the fermentor then?

I've been brewing for a few years now, but made a rookie mistake with my latest brew. I brewed an amber ale, and tasting (after fermentation had died down) it was delicious! A little yeasty, but otherwise a really good amber ale. I removed the carboy from my temp controlled fridge and let it...

I just started getting into water chemistry and purchased a TDS meter. The TDS of my starting water (RO and deionized) is 2 ppm. I added 48.8 ppm Ca, 5.2 ppm Mg, 15.4 ppm Na, 57.4 ppm SO4, 63.9 ppm Cl, and 32.6 ppm HCO3. How can I calculate a TDS from this? If I add up those additions (and...

I've been more careful about leaving trub behind with my last couple brews. After wort chilling I whirlpool, then wait 15 minutes to let it settle. A lot of the trub moves to the center, but it never really forms a compacted cone. Even carefully racking at the side of the kettle seems to stir...

I brewed an amber ale today and decided to try using chalk for an iodine test (did a vial test for my previous couple of all-grain brews). Even after mashing for over 90 minutes the test still wasn't negative on chalk. In the vial it looked negative, but the color is really hard to tell in...

I've looked all over and can't seem to find what kind of storage solution to use. Seems most pH meters use aqueous KCl, but some call for 0.1 M, some for 1 M, and some for 3-4 M (basically saturated). Is there any issue with storing a pH meter in too concentrated KCl? Also, would it be better...

That is all the information I have from the water report I can get online. I could try to call LWS to see if they have more data that they could give me. The report is available online here. I did a test with some lactic acid. In 5 gallons I can taste a very very subtle "brighter" flavor in...

I typically age my dark beers for a month or two before I find they are perfect for drinking, so I'll be patient with this one and see what happens! I would like to brew another all-grain beer before then though, but want to make sure I don't have the same issue. As I'm just getting in to...