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Sorry the Pol if I sounded condescending, just saw you had mentioned the lenght of the element in low level of water needed for mash. As for how to bend it, it's really as simple as it sounds. I pressed it over whaterver curved item I had near me (my knee in this case, but since I was...

Right on, thanks. So I should use a four conductor coard and tie the neutral into the 3 way switch, making continuity between one post of the element and the neutral for 120 or 2nd leg of 240 circuit to element post for 240 right? Ground remains ground in any scenario. If I'm not right on...

Thanks guys for all the responses. I had stopped worrying about it and never ended up having any problems, but have since gone all grain. I cant believe how easy the transition actually was.

I think I saw the same video by Bobby M. I do let my wort splash from above, and use that cone type attacment from morebeer, but I guess when I saw 120 FG's I really wanted to go for more aeration. As an update I brewed Jamils chocolate hazelnut porter AG which I was later told had a really...

I suppose my biggest problem is that my grains were below 40 deg so my strike temp was high, if I remember right 170. I was really hoping to do as Yooper said and add high then bring the temp down, but even using 180 water I went below my strike temp. Should I be leery about going over 180 in...

Well I know its been a while, but have been using the electric HLT for a couple brews now and LOVE IT! Back on my previous idea that got kicked down about using the heating element in my mash tun, I build a heat stick with a 240 ULWD element powered so far by 120. I guess that would make it...

My tap water straight out of the water heater is less than 120. If I preheat with that wont there still be an unknow loss? i've heard of using boiling water but am concerned about the integrity of the tun. I know I could add water from my HLT to raise the temp, but then I am wasting all that...

Since I know a lot of brewers out there use the 10 gallon round cooler as a mash tun, could somebody tell me how much they account for heat loss when not preheating the tun? I know ambient temp etc will be a factor, but maybe some ballpark figures or even better a link to a calculator...

I recently built a heat stick with a 4500 or 5500 watt heating element. Cant remember which I chose and since it is not relevant to my question I'm not digging it out to check. I read a post recently by Bobby M about running 240 to it and switching off the second leg to have it run on 120 when...

Oh wait, DC output. Nevermind.

I am a complete PID/ssr noobie, but would this set of SSR and heat sinc work?http://cgi.ebay.com/Solid-State-Relay-SSR-5-220V-DC-40A-Heat-Sink_W0QQitemZ370317196310QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item56389ffc16 It is only 16 bucks with free shipping. Is it totally the wrong device...

Not drinking for a couple days? The only time I do that is when my keg is empty, bringing me back to my original point.:rockin: Maybe I drink too much, but I dont think my faucets get time to grow mold before I down the keg.

That wine degasser looks nice, I just had the light bulb go off over my head when i looked over and saw the tubing I used. For less than a dollar I think it worked out well for me. As I said in the original post, I just heated the end and squished it together like a paddle, then offset it with...

Has anybody accidently dry fired one of these. I am wondering because I have a 5500 watt 240 element that I built into a 120v heat stick. I didnt think of it while buying the pieces, but the element is really long and I am worried that if a little element is sticking out of the water it will...

Whenever I switch my Keg I end up cleaning and sanitizing it as well. At this time is when I clean my lines. Why would it be necessary to have an additonal keg for this? The only thing I can figure is if you are cleaning your lines midway through a keg of beer on tap.

Thanks for the reply, I have seen those links but I have also read responses to that type of aerator that made me less comfortable with trusting it to fully aerate my wort. The drill just seemed like it would work better and charging batteries is cheap. Is there any disadvantage to over doing...

Up until my last batch I have been shaking the carboy for aeration and have always had a gut feeling that I'm just not getting the job done. Some of my beers have not reached the FG I was going for and even though they tasted fine I really want to make sure I get full fermentation. My last...

I've noticed that my FG was fine back when I did partial boils on the stove, but not that I'm using my bayou classic with full boils I'm never quite as low. This is the first 02 though. I figure either Im not introducing enough O2, or carmelizing my wort? That or i've got some bunk extract...

Hopefully it tastes fine. Not too worried about bottle bombs, keg bombs though...:p

thanks, I am trying that today.