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I tried finding one last year for the 2.5 in tower I have, and was not able to find one. I ended up shoe-horning in a second shank (very tight quarters, but it worked). It probably would have been easier to figure out how to mount a 3 in tower in its place.

It was a place called The Rocket Factory Timberworks, out of Rapid City SD. I stumbled on a Craigslist ad they had posted. Just happened to search for "live edge slab" and they had all these photos from their mill. Sam Chapman was the guy I worked with (and who made the deliveries to...

Check out Homebrewing.org. I picked up just about all of my hardware from them, and their prices always beat what I could find elsewhere. They also have different sales going all the time. I think right now the Perlick 630 faucets (both SS and chrome-plated) are on sale. I picked up most of...

I went a similar approach with building a wood shelf and bolting it to the collar of my keezer. I also wanted it low enough (and strong enough) to handle growler fills. I went with the 19" drip tray you can pick up for $20 or less from a couple different sources (BarSupplies.com...

I went with a 19" tray, and added a drain kit, from HomeBrewStuff.com. I think the tray was $19.99, drain kit an additional $8.99. The same drip tray is also available from BarSupplies.com for a bit cheaper (but they didn't have the drain kit). I built a wood shelf attached to the collar...

I have a foam koozy with the bottom cut out that I've wrapped around a can of beer (top and bottom of the can are exposed). I have the thermostat probe wedged between the koozy and the can. It seems to do a good job at reducing the cycling.

The guy who delivered the slabs had planed the inside edges and cut the biscuit slots, so I just had to glue things up. I assembled it upside down on a couple 2x4s and used a couple ratcheting tie-down straps to clamp everything together. Then it was onto sanding, lots of sanding. A friend with...

I did this with a 2.5 in tower, so it can be done. But it's an extremely tight fit. Drill a small pilot hole 90 degrees around from the existing hole, and ream it out with a 7/8 in step bit. You'll need to get the beer lines attached and the nuts on loosely on both shanks before you can tighten...

This probably took me 4 or 5 solid weekends to build: 1 weekend to cut, sand and assemble the collar, with the following week to stain and poly. Then I had to wait for the slabs to be delivered. Once they were in hand, I had a weekend to glue, clamp and sand, followed by another week to put on...

Yes, used a notched plastic trowel to spread the resin to all the edges. Caught some as it flowed over and brushed it on the edges to make sure everything was coated. It was messy, but not as bad as I thought it was going to be.

The plastic tap handles are just temporary; I'm planning on building my own (we're thinking of using spike antlers). So they'll be more noticeable, but they will be sticking up above the bar top. I'm a little worried that someone will slide something across the bar (i.e. a plate of nachos) and...

Just used brass door hinges (three of them); they're pretty heavy-duty. I used about 90 pounds of extra weight on top to compress the weatherstripping foam before I attached the hinges, to try and make sure I got a good fit when it closes. The lift cylinders are probably a bit over-powered (90...

I assembled the slab top and upper collar upside-down, and just used some corner brackets screwed into the slab and inside of the collar to secure everything. Since I was going to cover the entire interior surface with foam insulation, I wasn't worried how the brackets would look.

I ended up buying a 19" drip tray online (HomeBrewStuff.com had one for $19.99; I think BarSupplies.com had them for $15.99). But before that, I was considering using a drywall mud tray from the local hardware store. You can pick up a plastic one for a couple bucks, a little more for a...

Don't have one yet, but I'll start experimenting. I did a kit with the kids a couple years back that actually came out quite good. But that was before I got the kegging setup; now that I can force carbonate I want to start perfecting a recipe. I'm keeping my eyes open for a good deal on a...

Yes, the original freezer hinges are just used as anchor points for the lower collar. I included the extra corner braces on the lower collar because I wanted it good and solid for the upper collar to attach to. I had intended on epoxying a couple anchor points to the inside wall of the...

I've currently got a 2-liter pop bottle hidden in the decorative can; I've got a larger bottle I'll be inserting in there at some point. For now, I just want something to collect the rinse water I use to clear out the drip tray. For the electrical, I've got a drop cord covered by a safety...

When I first started sketching out this project, I was thinking I would just use a couple slabs of plywood, with a veneer on top, and wrap it all with bar rail. Then I started pricing bar rail (bit of an eye opener). My wife was the one that suggested going with a live edge slab. I decided to...

Before I assembled the top, I weighed the upper collar and the three slabs (just stacked them up on a bathroom scale). It came in just over 120 pounds, and that was without the danish oil, poly, resin, insulation, and all the hardware and components. My conservative estimate is that it came in...

My wife was a HUGE driver in this project turning out the way it did. When I was first sketching this out a year ago, I was planning something a bit simpler. But she was pretty adamant that if we do this, we do it right. She was the one that pushed to do a live-edge slab top, and found the...