Search results

I think the problem is my heat exchanger after much racking my brain. I took the RTDs out of the kettles and turned everything on and let it sit for a while and the 3 MYPINs ended up being within 1 degree of each other. So it's not the probes or the PIDs. My copper coil doesn't rest on the...

One of my MYPIN TA4's is reading about 8-10 degrees off the actual temperature. Wondering if people have had trouble with these and if there is an "auto calibrate" kind of feature or if there's a way to manually dial them in to the real temp.

It's a weather proof fiberglass box I got from a place called axman surplus in the twin cities Super easy to drill in but wear a mask for sure!

Kal I have a bottom draining MLT so I had to create some way to get access to the valve on it. I just shoved some paper towels in a the holes to block paint from going into the receptacles and I love the way it turned out !

The Pumps at this point are not attached to the stand. They are on a little bracket that I built like the one Kal built in the Electric Brewery site. As for the Mash tun, I've got a small home made hood that will only allow me to boil in the middle of the stand, this forces my hand a little...

Pj I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I just upload the photos in the "manage photos" window that comes up. What would be better? Any examples

final of the panel and of course a little logo for the project done by my brother who's a graphic artist

A few more with the brew stand finished

And some more including the brew stand I made with some scrap cherry hardwood floors my friend had.

And a few more including the old HERMS coil I had to refit after getting elements in my kegs.

Here's the progress on converting my old brutus10 system with no control panel to a 30amp HERMS with 3 Keggles.

Here's a few more pics as I put it all back together

Kal, I'm pretty confident I can get the PID's powered up and the RTD's connected properly so I didn't go through all the steps to get those in there...really just wanting to make sure I've got the basic power situation set up correctly and then if anyone had any expertise on the PID alarms...

Not sure how to get the resolution any better on this but here's a pdf and a JPG of the diagram. Note: XLR receptacles are not in the wiring diagram but they will be grounded and wired to the PID's obviously. Timer: not sure how to wire the alarms on the PID's if I'm not using an...

So here's my diagram so far... I've got some feedback from a couple of site members that the 240v lights will work with 120v but just may be a bit dimmer. So right now I have it drawn up to have all the lights except for the element selector switch lights to be 120v with a L1 and Neutral...

On accident I ordered my yellow element selector lights first and then Amazon and the person behind the curtain watching all of my buying habits recommended the blue, green and red lights I need for power, pumps and alarms. Problem is that they are all 240v lights instead of the 120v that...

So I could wire them the same as the 110 with a HOT and a NEUTRAL and be fine is what you're saying? Has anyone done this before and if so how much more dim are the they?

hunter306 - thx for the kind words on the table. I got lucky in that a buddy of mine had a bunch of left over cherry from a floor they installed and they were perfect lengths for the table. I've noticed you comment quite a bit in the EBrew forum so I had a quick question regarding the indicator...

Here's a few more pics of wiring and the stand coming together.

The false bottom was built by Jaybird (or at least that's what the guy told me) and it's a dead nuts perfect fit for the bottom of the keggle. Barely 1/8th of inch gap at any point all the way around the keggle so it's the perfect amount of space between the bottom of the screen and the bulge...