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Use the 10 gal recipe BM posted on page 1

BeerSmith says: 50l/13.2 gal batch, assuming 70% eff 18.75 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) 1.98 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) 0.77 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) 1.32 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) 0.60 oz Centennial [9.50%] (55 min) 0.60 oz Centennial [9.50%] (35 min) 0.60...

Yeah but what about hot side oxidation!? LOL... :mug:

That thread has converted many of us...

I do miss watching that blizzard of activity inside. I could sit there half the day watching it... :eek:

Not sure how much meat you plan to smoke at one time?? But I have a Kamado Joe and I'm digging it. I can sear steaks and cook pizzas at 600 deg and can also cook low & slow at 225 deg for hours and hours without hardly touching it... :mug:

Pre-chiller or not, a 50' IC would be a good starting point. And as others have said, moving the IC around or recirculating the wort greatly reduces the chill time. A 20' pre-chiller is probably fine to help get the wort temp down those last 15 degrees so you should be all set there. If you want...

Looks like you've outgrown your drip tray. You need one of those drip tray stretchers... ;)

Yeah, probably just as well to pull it right off the bat. I use a plastic conical as my FV. The opening is less than 1" and I'm sure I'd end up with a hop wad that would clog the opening if I didn't bag it. I use dental floss to suspend the mesh bag and to retrieve it when ready. Thanks...

I've been dry hopping a fresh squeezed inspired IPA for 6 days and getting reading to cold crash. I'm using pellet hops in a mesh hop sack. When cold crashing, I can either leave the hop sack in for the first day or two and then pull the sack and let cold crash another day. OR I can pull the...

You thrill seeker... ;)

Of course, if you're not in a rush, it will clear up pretty nicely all on it's own... ;)

For really light beers (blondes, very pale ales) some will compress fermentation time down to 10 days if in a rush. Dark heavier beers can need 4 weeks to finish. But a general rule of thumb for most beers, two weeks should be considered a minimum fermenting time with three weeks being typical...

To condition the grain with water, get a spay bottle that sprays a fairly fine mist. Put grain in bucket, spray 6-10 squeezes (depending on how much water the sprayer puts out) than stir that in. Keep repeating until you have mixed in enough water to equal about 2% of the grain weight (i.e.; 40...

The answer to that problem; drink more beer! It takes focus and discipline but if I can do it, you can... ;) A 25 ft chiller coil should do the trick for 3 gal. But if you ever think you'll step up to 5 gal batches, go with 50 ft. I bought the copper tubing online and made my own. About...

Are you sure it's not squirrels?? We have a ton of squirrels that do the same thing. Replant them, then tonight drink about 3 of your homebrews and go out and pee on them. Preferably after dark... ;) :mug:

No need to wire the heat side of STC when controlling a kegerator/keezer. I have a water proof probe so I got a quart sized milk jug and filled it 3/4 with water. Drilled a small hole in the top and suspended the probe in the water. Just make sure the bottom of the jug is insulated or raised...

Was wonder why you used a "royal" blue. By itself, it sticks out like a sore thumb. The logo makes all the difference! :mug:

Is this meant to be an overall adjustment to the Primer? Or just an adjustment to a particular situation Jiffster posted?? If it's for an overall adjustment, hopefully the original post will be edited accordingly for posterity...

I have (2) FF and (4) collection ball unions. There is one combination that is seems to have mismatching threads. It gets harder to screw on with each turn. I usually just swap it out for another when I come across it. One of these days I'll mark it... Maybe you got one with mismatching...