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As jwalk4 pointed out (which I didn't think of initially as I haven't bottle carbed in a while), naturally carbing in a keg will produce a considerable amount of sediment. If the keg is left stationary, it would take several pours to clear up. But as soon as the keg is moved, it will stir up the...

Well there you go OP! Gavin has your answer. I would say 5l mini kegs would be perfect for what the OP describes. Good on you Gavin!

You want to get into kegging but; You don't brew that much and you only brew small batches. And you don't want to use a CO2 tank... Oxidation will be a problem if you don't purge your kegs of O2 first. Trying to manage kegging with CO2 cartridges/chargers will only lead to frustration...

No need to say anymore. Sometimes you just have to do what you have to do... ;) Looking forward to your build! :mug:

I would skip #1. Everything else looks good. My opinion; Some folks get too hung up on trub removal before primary even starts. Trub reduction and clarity will come later.

Once you get over $100, you're pretty much back in Chugger territory. Those small $22 DC solar pumps are cheap enough you can keep an extra on hand if you break one. Once you get your system dialed in and plumped how you like it, then you could upgrade to Chugger/March. Just a thought...

It appears the pump head is SS (exterior) but may not be rated for high temp...

This is more a "show me" thread than a DIY thread. Repost your question in the DIY section and I'm sure you'll get lots of help. ;)

+1^^ I've seen several folks use this work-around due to loosing CO2. With proper installation, the system is designed to remain pressurized without leaks but like everything, things fail from time to time. However, by intermittently pressurizing, depressurizing and pressurizing the system...

I don't own a GF but have been following this thread and others... Are you doing a step mash or just heating up your strike water?? If you're heating strike water, I seem to have read; Running the pump robs the heating element of power. So only run the pump once your strike water temp has...

Good grief. That sounds like a PITA... If you're dead set on leaving the CO2 tank outside the keezer, have you thought about doing a 2x collar and drilling through that instead? Then you won't have to drill through the freezer. And I assume the reason your tank has so much condensation on it...

Knock yourself out... ;)

I'm sure some of the kegglers will see this but you may get better response if you re-post in the DIY forum.

I would not reduce pressure on your regulator without bleeding the keg first. Close outlet valve on your regulator, bleed keg, reduce pressure on your regulator, re-open outlet valve. There are several methods of burst-carbing described in this thread. Pick a method and go with it...

Use a thermometer and measure the temp inside the kegerator. Ice is not your friend inside your beer lines. Once you're sure ice is no longer a problem, drop the psi back down to around 10-12. If there are no obstructions in the lines, that's more than enough to push the beer. Next thing...

Merry Christmas!:mug:

Good deal. S04 does have a wide range but give it plenty of time at the bottom of the range, &/or consider ramping up the temp some after the first 5 days to help it finish.

A little off topic but what yeast strain are you using? 60 deg is a bit low for most ale strains.

You could always put an upside down glass over the airlock... ;)

should be fine but a couple more couldn't hurt.