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So, if I do use liquid nails, will it be permanent? I guess it shouldn't be too much of a problem, because if I do sell it eventually, I can get a lot more for a keezer than a really old freezer.

So, i'm going to take the plunge and go for kegging. I think the keezer is what I want to make. But I do have a few questions for those with experience. 1. Which would you suggest, attaching a collar to the body of the freezer, and have the lid open. Or attach the lid to the collar, and have...

Also, what on earth is that recipe anyway. It's like an India wheat ale. IWA? I'm intrigued.

Well, on beersmith you should just be able to adjust the batchsize. Set that to three gallons and it should set everything you need from there. But I can tell you, a 3 gallon batch with that amount of grain is going to give you an imperial wheat beer. first wort hopping is hops added to the...

Is there any problem with the beer turning out too dry?

An English mild for the 4th? That doesn't sound right.

Well, if your going to eventually be there, no sense in waiting.

This seems like a good place to ask. Why would a naturally carbed beer have more trub than a force carbed beer. Shouldn't you technically have the exact same amount of yeast in suspension when you put it into the keg?

I simply don't like bottling because I don' want to have to chill a bottle a day before I want to drink it. It would be much nicer to simply have 5 gallons ready to go. I just need some cash and a job before I can get into it. Thank god for craigslist.

I would just take any good IIPA recipe and add debittered black to it. I would think that would give you good results.

No, don't do it. They will probably shatter and kill someone.

It may take a high ABV beer that has been aged for a while some time before it carbs. Just back away and let it sit for a while. My best advice is to try to forget about the beer.

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to take care of it now.

That was a mouthfull. So, I attempted a Arrogant Bastard clone, but due to some rust (a few months off), some equipment problems (thermometer) and some stupid stuff by me, I screwed it up bad. I ended up mashing at too high of a temp, used way too much water, and was lazy with my yeast. So...

I used to shop online almost exclusively. It was a bit cheaper if I bought 5 batches at once, and used flatrate shipping. But I'm getting tired of having that much grain around, I just don't have room. I finally found a good brewshop around me, with good prices. 1.25/# on 2-row. 2.50/oz on whole...

In regards to your sparge water. There is no set amount per pound you need. Your sparge should be enough to give you what you need to boil. you take the amount of grain you are using, multiply by the thickness you want to use, such as 1.25Q/lb. This will give you the amount of water you need for...

I use dry, usually switching between Notty an 05, for just about every beer I make. The only times I use a liquid strain is if I'm making a lager (which never happens) a Belgian, and a wild ale.

Why is that. There is no difference between liquid and dry yeast other than cell count. So, why would you not need to aerate a dry yeast when you would with a liquid yeast after making a starter. Maybe there is something I am missing?

I believe they are implying that you just sprinkle on top of your wort. However, you should still aerate. They are saying that you simply don't need to stir the yeast in. I actually do it this way and it works just fine. The only times I rehydrate yeast is if I'm making a mead.

I can see this being a problem if you are slowly drinking a keg over the course of a month. But at a party, I really doubt you can oxidize a beer in one day? Everything I know about brewing tells me that oxidizing a beer takes a long time.