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Just finished up the ekeggle. Would like to put a level sight glass on it yet. Going to build a stand first.

Got it somewhat plumbed with some stuff I had laying around from my old setup. I have some alignment issues. I have stainless fittings coming in tomorrow hopefully some will be resolved. I also have to index the temp sensor fitting to the back.

I was not really looking to sell stuff just sharing what I am working on. But, I will always seek others interest. Im pretty sure $110 is just a base price for the tube and 2 clamps you have to add on the rest which will come close to $200 if not just under or over.

When I get a chance to make the final one I will calculate it up and let you know. I don't know what the policys are here for selling stuff. But I know it would be just about 2 bills for everything. Tri clamps version and conduit box. This one is designed for a 4500watt low density element

I fab it from raw material. 1 1/2 tubing, 2- 3/8 half couplings, a 1/4 half coupling for the temp sensor, and I machined a end cap with 1in Npsm threads in it for the heater. The conduit box I made with sheet metal end caps and piece of 3in tube. All 304 stainless, tig welded and electro...

Just finished the rims tube

Finishing up the cart.. Just realized i should have got locking casters. Its going to roll around while stiring. Starting on a new rims tube now.

I had enough problems keeping this one in the bucket with 1 pack.I lost 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon thru the blow off. Pitching 2 packs you will probally have 1/2 to 3/4 gallons left after the first day!!

I cut the 2 halves out on a water jet. I had the hinge and handle laying around. Which originally came from mcmastercarr. Material is 16ga 304ss

Found a old 1/2 barrel in the scap yard yesterday. I tore into it this afternoon. Cut the top out, welded in 2-3/8 fittings, built a false bottom, and a lid. Not bad for 2 1/2 hours. I'm going to build a cart next to mount everything too.

That one is only .05/gal min actuation. I really would not recommend that one. I bumped mine up to a .5/gal one from .25 because I really don't want my flow to be under .5/gal min with the element on. With one that is .05. If the flow rate slow from grain issues the element will probally...

This one is $15 .25 flow actuation

I got a .5 on eBay for $16.. Also the .25 I have I think I paid around $23 from somewhere. Look around I'm sure you can find one a lot cheaper.

I currently using a Gem flow sensor on mine works perfect. I have it in series with the ssr signal. I can just shut the pump down and not have to worry about the heater firing unless it sees .5gal/min or more. Look Here

I sent it to Ward $16.50 for the test and $7 shipping UPS Depending on what part of the borough you are in you may want to get yours tested also they have 4 different wells but only using 3. So you maybe on a different well!!

If you are planing a ale version I would consider the California lager yeast it fermentation temp is 68F. I made it with this the first time and it was excellent. A clean ale yeast will be good but don't think it will taste as intended. You would be making a cream ale. Good luck

I should start using phosphoric I have 2 55s of 85% food grade in the shop right now.. I have been playing with brun water and i see what you mean with the acid additions. But if you add portions of dark malts it brings the mash ph right in range. So I am left with, dark beers I can use my...

I have been using lactic acid to bring my ph into range. Recently I used 5.2 stabilizer a few times. Is this going to create off flavors because of the high bicarbonate level? I have brewed pretty many batches with altered RO but would love to just use my house water. But, if I have to go to 2:1...

Thanks for the explanation. I was just looking at bru'n water and saw it there

Ya the magnesium being a bit high kind of screws up the additions a bit for many profiles except Burton profile that one is pretty close.