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Personally, I'm really liking this Idea, especially if I spring for the 60qt. The thing that REALLY makes it worth while is the fact that once you outfit the Kettle with your element, drain and temp sensor for BIAB, then it is also perfectly suited for a 10gal BK using a traditional setup. Full...

if your collar goes the whole way around the top of the freezer, then I imagine you can secure your hinges to that, and not have to worry about any coolant lines when securing the lid.

look in here for the 'ebay aquarium temp controler'. costs about 20 bucks, and if you use in place of the old thermostat, you can control the temps very precisely. problem is, it could be that they relay (or some other component) is shot, which could make the repair more complicated. but, if...

I built mine with a rectangle cooler, but the idea is the same. I soldered most of my pieces together, and the manifold has a female thread piece that lines up with the original spigot hole. On the outside I have male threaded piece soldered to the valve, and a washer and gasket around that...

Assuming its the kind where the freezer is just a compartment inside the fridge, then yes, the freezer keeps the fridge cold. the metal plate that makes the freezer is usually the only cold coil in the fridge. the fact that its a freezer, is just by virtue of the contents being wrapped...

i see you marked the coolant line, but how did you determine where it was before starting?

First thing I would say is that if the compressor is small enough, it probably wouldn't be much of a concern. I know plenty of people have powered dorm fridges and the like without anything special to protect, but those are usually running around 2-3 amps, so the startup on those isn't too...

don't know if anyone was following this, but after some thought, I realize that this approach is just a little too much work, and probalby going to be more complicated than necessary. so, since i have the ability to do so, I'm actually going to use the compressor, but replace the water chamber...

suppose you have 12VDC as your control voltage, this relay at mcmaster should do the trick: 7266K43. its on page 892 of their online catalog. probably wwant the relay socket too. and the contacts are rated for 10A @ 240VAC so you should be able to run your pump straight off one of the poles on it.

whats the voltage of your control supply (what you're running through the float switches)?

use a DPST mechanical relay for your high/low control (which looks liek everything from the coil over to the left) and use the second pole to fire an SSR for the pump. the wear on the mechanical should be pretty low per cycle, since you're only switch a few mA oneach pole, and based ont he...

you could always do a jockey box with stainless coils in the cooler, but again you're hitting on the DIY time of option 3 (by the way, i really like #3, good find).

he's saying that his ground water is coming out as warm as 80 degrees. no amount of CFC will get it lower than that, which is why he wants to introduce the ice water somehow

pretty straight forward. if you want to make it not so straightforward, throw in some design from 'son of a fermentation chamber', where you isolate the ice chamber from the Ale chamber, and use a fan and thermostat to move air between the chambers when it gets higher.

i have a 25' cfc and an older immersion chiller im not using anymore. I'm planning on putting the immersion chiller in a bucket of ice water, then running tap water through the immersino chiller, cooling it even farther, then running through the CFC. I imagine that may make it even more...

do you mean electrically in series or parallel? or wort flow series/parallel? in fact, now that I'm thinking about it, you want an element that you can go full throttle for steps, but manage the wattage for temp maintenance. how about this.... a 220V 5500W element will only operate at 1375W...

I thought about this too, because i agree with the redundancy. here's a thought I had: suppose you heat strike water in BK, transfer to MLT, and mash in. during mash, heat sparge water to desired temp. when you're ready to start your lauter/sparge, transfer all your sparge water from the BK to...

while this isn't ideal, try using something like a jokeybox. have a long coil of tuning in the fridge on a shelf, and pump the beer through that. problems are that you need to keep the keg outside the fridge, and you have to plumb through the door, but definitely the best way to save space.

The element in the thing is ~500W, which may be a little overkill. and the more I play with it, the more it seems liek I may be better off just using the cold chamber, and putting a cartridge heater in it, like this: 300W heater that might make the heat more manageable, and one chamber it...

yeah, i know, theres simpler ways. but, i really want to use water as my 'thermal medium' instead of air. it would be a lot easier to get a minifridge and a cheap hairdryer hooked up to a temp controller, and call it done, but air hold so little heat. i know it would work, but if this works too...