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Actually, I won't even be using a tube during the wort transfer. I don't technically need the hose barb but it should help control the wort flow.

I'm planning on getting a 9-gallon brew pot with one welded 1/2" female coupling. I know I will need a few more parts to complete it but I want to make sure I get the right size for every piece. Hex nipple - 1/2" SS ball valve - 1/2" Hose barb - 1/2" male end, 3/8" barb end (for 3/8" hose)

I saw the hex nipples and figured they would be much easier to remove. The hose barb is also a great idea. Luckily, I live 5 minutes away from a great LHBS that ships to store for free so I should be set on quickly getting a relatively cheap part that I forget.

Good catch. I would have had two female ends and lots of disappointment.

That is the exact kettle I had my eye on. Would a valve like this be adequate?

Thanks for the responses. Now that I look more extensively online, I don't think the price difference is as much as I thought. Do you all think it's worth the extra money to have two welds or is just the one for the valve enough? I'm holding off on getting a carboy until I'm a few batches in...

The only piece of equipment I still need after my first brewing kit is a kettle. I know it's going to be a 9/10 gallon SS kettle but I can't decide if it's worth the extra money to get a welded kettle for a ball valve. I'm planning on making 5 gallon batches and don't know if the weight of...

Thanks for all your responses so far! I think I'm going to get some extra dry yeast as well, just in case. I imagine the people at the brew shop would be able to help me pick the correct yeast strain for the type of beer. I have a question about kettles as well but will probably post that...

I'm looking at kits for my first brew and all of the Brewer's Best instructions I have read say NOT to re-hydrate the yeast yet "How to Brew" by John Palmer says many, many times to re-hydrate. Which should I listen to? It seems like re-hydrating is a good idea to make sure it's not dead but...