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Bottles are better primed/conditioned at 70 degrees for 3 weeks or so, then into the fridge. The sediment should be there, it means the yeast is going its job and carbing the beer.

Naturally carbed in the bottle will leave a thin layer of trub at the bottom of the bottle. How much sugar did you use when priming?

I assume that would be the "handling"; either way, sounds like the typical workaround to make something "free".

When you poured, were you careful to leave the yeast/trub in the bottom of the bottle?

I have 2 LBKs (I use one to batch prime)/have additional small batches in the rotation, so I'd be mildly interested in trying this out. But from a functional standpoint it doesnt seem like it would make a huge difference overall. I could be wrong, but it seems like it may be more of the neat...

I use gallon jugs of spring water from the grocery store. They are a $1 each and I just find it more convenient to dump the jugs in the kettle. Plus I keep a couple in the fridge to cool the wort. I get filtered water through my fridge and that just takes too long to get 6 gallons, plus the cost...

Kind of unrelated to your original intent, but you don't need to boil the bottles. I just fill up my utility sink with warm/hot water and half a scoop of oxyclean free. Let then soak for 15-20 minutes and the labels slide off. Then soak in star San prior to bottling time.

Alright, so I got around to attempting this today. I think I made a few mistakes and am wondering if I should be OK or if I can take corrective action. First - I rehydrated at about 90degrees per what I've done with Ale yeast; so pretty sure I goofed. Second - I pitched at about 68 b/c I...

Holy 5 year old thread bump!!! Still good and relevant info though.

Brew Great Beer is free today. It's OK, very basic and no better than just browsing the forums. I wouldn't pay for it, but free is worth it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AYQKMHQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's rated as r3.6 (or somewhere around there) and I doubled it, so I figure it must help a little. And I like the silver look better than the pink foam, which I think is rated around 7. It wasn't too hard to put on, just some spray glue.

Nice. I like it!

The chalkboard paint is just on the exterior; it should have no impact on the cooling.

The other one is just a fermentation chamber. We already hooked up the temp controller, it just wasnt in the picture. My basement in the winter was making it tough to control temps since the gas furnace is on the other side; so now this comfortably allows me to ferment at a more constant 65 or...

Nice!!! Unfortunately, I'm in VA. All the stuff I've seen online is pretty tacky looking.

Great. That seems to confirm what I was reading. Since I'd be placing an order anyway, might as well just add the extra packet rather then looking into setting up a starter operation. Not that it looks hard or expensive; but I might as well keep it simple for now especially since I am using dry...

Interesting. I speculated a production date for this and it says 19 grams of yeast; so I could hypothetically just do a little under 2 packs of dry yeast then, rather than a starter? I assume rehydrating would be beneficial? Thanks

Thanks. I did one tap for each Pro Team. My goal is to eventually find some nice handles; one for the Pirates, one for the Steelers and one for the Penguins.

So I'd like to try a lager kit from Northern Brewer and have some questions. It says to use a yeast starter, but the default yeast is Dry (at least I think it is) and I thought starters were done with liquid yeast? Any insight or tips would be most appreciated. Thanks...

I know there are tons of people showing off their Keezer projects; so after a lot of hard work, I wanted to share mine. Its painted entirely in chalkboard paint and is a little different from what I've seen, so here you go........ :mug: