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Yes. Use the spring conversion kit. :) that's what I meant to say.

Most gas valves can be converted from natural (3.5) to LP (10 or 11). Seems like that would take care of it.

If the pilot flame stays on, then the t-couple is good. Is the gas valve yer using for the proper gas?

I always use secondary myself, for clarity in lighter colored beer and to help clear out some of the thicker stuff in brew with so many adjuncts. I think I read somewhere it's recommended with higher gravity beer like this also.

I'm trying to decide the most cost effective route for me. I don't own an air compressor so cost wise I would need to purchase one along with the parts to make a de-gasser, or purchase an aspirator pump. Of course I could use the compressor for other things which is a plus. What would be a good...

I always use secondary. Helps clarify any brew. After in primary 5-7 days I rack it to glass carboy and leave there for two weeks. Then straight to kegerator.

OK thanks, I didn't think of that.

It's all new. Kit came with no directions so I was hoping purging line was good enough.

Oops! I just re-read your question. I thought you meant ingredients vs kits. I try and support local and where I go they have kits and all the ingredients.

I would think buying ingredients would be less expensive than kits, but so far I only tried once to match a kit of Imperial Nut Brown which was $53 at retailer and ingredients came to $47 which isn't much different. I'm looking into bulk or semi bulk and then grinding the grains to see if that...

I usually move to secondary after 5-6 days and usually don't see much bubbles in secondary. Secondary is mainly for clarifying so as long as your hydrometer readings are in range you should be good to go. Taste may better with age and carbonation of course.

My hoses are crimped to fitting at regulator so I can't easily soak in sanitizer.