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OK Let me try...Sorry in advance if this is obnoxious. 1

I took some pics but don't have permission to upload. I can email them to you if you want. I have 25' of 3/8" Copper tube wound around a 3" pipe. The coil goes in a 4" pvc pipe. Originally I planned on making the end caps threaded and that is why the copper "in" and "out" ends are on the...

This is like a CFC...kind of. I think it is more efficient than an IC.

I'm boiling on my stove, and leaving the barb and hose off until after the boil and whirlpool.

I'm going to install a SS valve on my kettle. When its time to drain I plan on screwing in the barb fitting and then using vinyl tube to drain to the chiller. Will the vinyl stand up to the heat?

I'm brewing tonight so I'll try to take it apart and get some pics. There was some trial and error in putting it together so the pics will definitely help.

Your siphon will melt (personal experience) and the vinyl won't exchange heat. I made my chiller pretty cheap...25' of 3/8 copper tube coiled around a 3" pipe and placed in a 4" PVC pipe. I capped both ends of PVC and put fittings in the ends to get beer in and beer out and water in and water...

S-04 is just about all I use. You can't beat fermentation in 3 days and crystal clear beer in 5.

I buy grain in 55# sacks and keep a stock of specialty malts, hops, and yeast that I typically use. I don't go crazy though and I typically use only a few varieties of hops and almost exclusively use Safale S-04 so it is easy to keep stock for a variety of beers. It works out great because you...

From the book: "Here's a little gem that will help reduce chill haze and reduce some harshness: Add about 1 oz of finely crushed black malt to your light beers at the end of the mash. The addition will not affect color significantly but will absorb some of the polyphenols, tannins and...

CP says it wont add much in the way of color and to add the dark malt "late" in the mash. I don't know if that means half way through or with just 10 minutes left.

I read in Papazian's The Homebrewer's Companion that adding 1 oz of finely crushed black malt toward the end of the mash will reduce chill haze and astringent harshness in pale beers. He says that large commercial breweries in the US do this trick to their beers, which might explain why...

The first AG will take 6 - 8 hours, but once you go through the motions a few times 4 - 5 hours is do-able. I brew after work, I'm home by 5:30 and in bed at about 10 with the brew in the fermenter and the yeast pitched.

I definitely need to measure my mash pH to see what's really happening. Here is my water analysis: Calcuim 20, Magnesium 4, Alkalinity 42, Sodum 13, Chlorides 27, Sulfate 12, pH 7.2. Its kind of a blank slate for mineral additions. I suppose there are plenty of salt combinations I can add...

My water report is this: Calcuim 20, Magnesium 4, Alkalinity 42, Sodum 13, Chlorides 27, Sulfate 12, pH 7.2. Palmers sheets shows I'm good for pale to amber beers. I want to bring up the calcuim and sulfate in my water, especially for pale ales, so what do I do to make sure I'm in the right pH...

I've been AG brewing for a while and just starting to get into water chemistry, mainly to find a solution to my grainy bland pale ales. I have very soft water with a pH of 7.2 (according to my water report) and I usually add gypsum to my brewing water regardless of style. My brown to very dark...