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This switch is not safe to use if your element is 4500Watt or higher. It can be overheated and melt. Use at least 20Amp rated switch for 4500Watt element and 25Amp rated switch for 5500Watt element.

I found that 1/8" width is little bit too thick. But it's up to your setup.

I bought 10 gaskets here - http://www.ebay.com/itm/310578331554 and they fit well.

you just need to. put through tooroid any one wire coming to your heating element. Doesn't matter if it goes through SSR or connected to receptacle directly from hot bus.

Sure you can use it. Moreover 300V rated wires don't fit requirements for 240V circuit wiring. Because "240V" its just an average (“Root-Mean-Squared” to be precise). But the peak voltage value is around 340 Volts

It's not about voltage level. According to relay spec "Average coil consumption 1.7 W " It means you need 12 V source capable to provide 150 mA current. That PID you are referring can provide only 30mA. So relay will not be engaged if you connect it directly to PID. I'm not very familiar with...

That relay can control 4500 Watt heater. However you can't connect it to PID SSR output directly. The relay coil require more current than PID can provide. You need to use either PID with relay output plus external 12 volt power supply or use some electronic circuit to control relay. Again you...

TA-4 supports both Celsius and Fahrenheit reading. But it doesn't have a manual mode. So you can maintain temperature you want bat can't control boiling intensity.

This is an amateur forum. Everybody can express it's own opinion and it's up to you wisdom to follow it or not. So my opinion : American electrical code is extremely conservative. For example European standards allow to use wires similar to 10AWG for 50AMp load. Same for marine standards. See...

If you want 15Amp load use a 14AWG wires , for 20 Amp use 12AWG. Any wires coming to/from PID can be any size up to 22AWG

It's not true. You can't make 10awg wire to catch a fire under 50amp load. EDIT: OK let say "Under normal circumstances you can't make 10awg wire to catch a fire under 50amp load". If you take a long 10awg cord make a coil from it, put it in small very well thermal insulated box , add some...

Yes, instruction is available and assembly is not a rocket science. You also willneed a 10/3 power cord which can cost you extra $20+ If you need a similar but preassembled controller I can reccomend this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/191344786552

Yes two SSRs in series will work. But be aware - they will generate twice more heat. So you will need a bigger heatsink.

lokks like you've tested it with no load connected. if so what you've seen is OK. SSR is leaking some very small amount off current, but its enugh to lit an LED if no load connected. Connect an incandescent lamp and repeat a testing.

I've seen different REX C-100 models. most of them has universal power supply. But some 120 or 220 volts only.

My solution is very similar to that one. Mine just a little bit simpler and safer.

Alarm is just a relay which activated if temperature raise or fall below programmed level. To make it audible you need to connect a buzzer. And I was wrong about SSR connection. SSR should be connected to terminals 7 (+) and 9(-).

If switch 1 has two NO contacts you can connect 240V contactor this way:

Sure, you just need to make minor adjustment to the diagram. Connect a second coil terminal to another hot instead of neutral.

SNR has one alarm, SRR has two. But both has a direct SSR output. So you can wire SSR directly to PID.