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Are you using some kind of temperature controller which runs an SSR? Simplified diagram just to show an idea if you wish to use 2 SSRs. However I'd recommend to use 2 contactors. What is you coil wattage? And do you use a temperature controller?

I suspect it's a DS18B20 sensor wired for parasite power mode.

I can't ay it for sure but may be your wiring is incorrect. Does it match this picture ?

Many PIDs can be powered from 240V, so it;s not a problem to make a pure 240V controller.

10/4 required only if you are going to use 120V out of that cable. If it's for pure 240V service 3 wires is enough - 2-hots, , 1-ground

Hmm .. according to reviews it doesn't look like quality product. Couple review (sorry , auto-translation): “Of the big cons are the hopper mounts for the sparging position. They are very flimsy. There are only 3 of them, one was shifted and miss a base. Plus all of them very flimsy in...

Sure you can do it. You can take a timer relay module like: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Programmable-Multifunction-Segment-Automatic/dp/B07BT32T1M or https://www.amazon.com/MakerHawk-Controller-Delay-Off-Control-Display/dp/B07M9VWL6Y Program it for infinite loop with desired On/Off time...

Most likely IRLZ44N will work OK, but it depends on coil parameters. So it's better to do a test before starting panel assembling .

Something like this:

Looks OK for me. Fuse and resistor for E-Stop are definitely necessary. Though I don't like an idea to relay solely on GFCI for emergency stop. I'd use emergency button with pair of NC/NO contacts and wire NC inline with "Main Power On". In that case even if GFCI fails main contractor will be...

Something like 100-200 Ohm is enough. Yes, I just overlooked it. I didn't say 3.3V is not enough to operate this MOSFET. It just will not be open fully just partially. May be it would be enough to operate your coil or may be not. If you have your coil handy I can suggest to create test...

What is your heating element wattage? That heatsink is good only up to 15Amp if run without a fan. Amd even less if placed in sealed enclosure. I'd add a fan and vent holes.

It's enough. However you can buy a 10/4 SOOW cord, required plug and receptacle and make extension cord yourself. This way you can save around $60 and get rid of extra adapter. Plus you can make extension cord with length you exactly need.

Why not? Drawing done by unusual way but circuits are OK

You can use something like this - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=263841734076 In that case I'd recommend to buy a bare sensor(s) and install it in thermowell using thermal paste. You can buy sensors really cheap on ebay (for...

What are your elements wattage an voltage? Do you have an electrical outlet capable to handle both elements simultaneously? 1) Up to you. 2) If your brewery is not in operation you don't need a laptop to control it. 4) Cheapest way is to use DS18B20 probes. You just need a 4.7KOhm resistor to...

This proportional SSR has a micro controller inside which implement a logic described here - https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ACPhaseControl Yes you can use a digital potemtiommeter connected to proportional SSR controlled by Arduino but why do you need a 2 micro controllers (one in SSR and...

Disassemble an existing temperature sensor and put in a new thermowell - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338413729&icep_item=142876694658

Take a look here - https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ACPhaseControl You can use the same schematic but need mo re powerful triac. Fro example this one - https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bta40-600b/stmicroelectronics

All of them are very similar. Take one which looks better for you. Or the cheapest one.