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If by "oxygen hungry" you mean one of the gnarliest looking top cropping yeasts I have ever seen.... Then yes.

I started volunteering several yrs ago and that solved the problems that you mention. I get an annual invite to work a session as brewers support / talking to them and delivering kegs and ice. Then a tasting session that costs $5. Tons of free schwag and the brewer after hours party(ies) never...

Yes indeed that amount of Pilsen could have been an issue if your boil wasn't long enough.

So..... What did everyone think??? Favorites? Least favorites? I stuck with my usual plan of sampling a good amount of the available citrus / dank herbal IPA offerings. Most were reasonably good. Finished with my all time favorite Edward from HF. Also sampled the Lawsons / Otter Creek...

To satisfy my curiousity, what was the grain bill?

I've had some "rogue" judge comments in the past as well. My best S.W.A.G would be oxidation is your culprit (assuming that the judge is correct) DMS is really hard to mistake as that taste of canned corn is rather gross. I have tasted something similar in a couple of beers made by myself and...

What is the date of manufacture on your package of 1318 yeast?

You will need a bigger starter. Basically, a 5.5 gal batch at 1.070 or so will need 250 to 300 billion cells. A freshly manufactured 1318 smack pack is only 100 billion. That number drops as it gets older, for instance 75 billion cells are left after roughly a month. Using Brewers Friend, I...

10 days after bottling and 12 hours in the fridge. I am thinking that this will be the Haus IPA

The bubbling is more than likely because of the temperature change. The addition of dry hops could make it off gas some more I think too. No harm done at this point, the only possible down side is with active bubbling you could potentially lose some of your aroma from the hops. I still wouldn't...

I have never used 1469 yeast before. I saw this post the other day (as I am sure many did) and chose to wait for input from someone that had used the yeast before. At this juncture I would say go for it and use it. If it comes out well (and I cannot imagine this beer coming out badly) then...

Thanks. I figured that i must be missing something on my phone app, so I went back and checked out the link on my computer. When I clicked on Doug's research link on my phone app, all it showed me was the data that was copied and pasted and not the multitude of calculations and data that he...

I was in total agreement with you. The link provided a very concise explanation of sound scientific principles. I should have explained more in my response. I cold crashed both beers during winter months for almost 10 days. Then added priming sugar according to Beersmith, which had a default...

Yes. Except if you bottle right after the cold crash (like I did) then you will over carb the beer (like I did)

In addition to all the other good points that have been made that explain your scenario, I have an additional one. The temperature of the beer during fermentation and then at bottling time plays a role in the carbonation, especially if you cold crash. Colder beer has more residual CO2 in...

Are you currently brewing? If not then may I suggest using a water chemistry calculator (like EZ Water or BrunWater) to dial in your target pH before you even start. That way you will be in the ballpark to begin with (or exactly spot on) and then you will have a better idea of how much acid to...

I think that you have 2 different things confused here Lactic acid is used in the mash to adjust pH (down to a level of usually 5.2-5.5); that is not to say that 4.7 isn't correct, just not the usual. Lactobacillus is a bacteria that is used to make "sours". Which one are you trying to do?

Extra water is good advice, there will definitely be LOSS to hops. My personal advice is tweak your water to get the sulfate levels up (if you are able to tweak water that is). I found that without the sulfate levels, the perceived hop bitterness, flavor and aroma just seem to be lacking in the...

YES and YES.... My blonde ale always looks copper colored until I bottle and condition it. Suspended yeast and proteins can cause light refraction/reflection that does not accurately represent the real beer. Late extract additions (at flameout) will also keep it more true to color...

Yup. It's a done deal.