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I am putting my control panel together, Its a small Auber single PID box. My pump pulls 1.25 amps and the element pulls 9 amps. so 10.25 amps together. I kinda wanted to use this switch and plug off a computer power supply. BUT I would have to run a second cord for the pump as the switch...

I was just logging in to mention this. I'm starting to think the power loss from the inverter will be well worth the simplicity of sticking with 120v

The jobs of maintaining my RIMS circulation heat and running my Barrel smoker are fairly simmilar in theory, I'm trying to figure out how to make one control box that I can switch between my brewery and my Smoker cart. I was going to use the Auber three 1/16 DIN box for the build...

side note. who fills your tank? If I could get my Med-OX tank filled it would last me hundreds of brews but I've had no luck thus far.

How far are you from Allentown? kegs are always good to find and i'm sure we could dig you up a burner and pot.

And flux will kind of work, BUT it will be a bitch to get out of the kettle after. Backgassing is really the best answer

Make sure he backgasses his welds. Had an exhaust guy say he knew stainless and he sugared the inside of my kegs badly. If you were down here I would be able to help you out. But backgassign the welds is key when doing stainless. The weld might look good on the topside, but inside it...

Haha refference your avatar. My Conure LOVES my beer! but I get yelled at every time I get caught letting him lick the glass.

In regard to the breakers in your build vs the fuses in the onle I posted. As I was planning on using the smaller box from Auber I am a bit nervous about having the breakers in the same spot. The way you have it set up with the breakers in your CP does that take place of the spa panel...

I would like to eventually go electric with my system currently planning a 120V gas fired BK and HLT. RIMS controlled by PID and gas assist. My eventual goal in a year or so(when i get 240 installed to the garage) would be the ability to run back to back 10 gallon batches...

It seems like this box is a bit smaller than others that guys are using. I'm almost worried if everything will fit inside it. Currently I am just doing a basic one pump RIMS setup. But eventually I want to expand into an all electric 240v 30 -50 amp system with 2-3 PIDS to integrate the HLT...

subscribing so i don't loose the thread...

they are pretty cheap to buy online new. look up 2 liter bottle preforms or blanks. they are essentially soda bottles before they heat and pop them into the right shape, ie coke or pepsi. http://www.stevespanglerscience.com/product/test-tubes

Pretty neat looks like it is catering toward the brewing market. Precut for 3 PIDS and a heat sink. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_34&products_id=295

just too keep it in perspective. Kegs cost $350 new. the $35 is just a deposit to help bring the kegs home to the brewery. How many 15 gallon, heavy walled, stainless steel pots can you buy for $35 bux? even a $100 for a "legaly" sold keg in good condition is still probably a good deal.

..... nevermind I'm an idiot. I'm looking at the SSR, for some reason it wasn't sinking in what it was in the diagram.

anyone know what the 0 voltage circuit in the diagram is for? do I need it?

I'm a bit capped by my availiable power in my garage. need to stay under the 15amps total, and that includes lights in the garage, radio, pump, and element. So I figured the 4500watt element vs the 5500watt would be the right choice. I will also have a direct fire option via burner for...

I found a PJ diagram that i think is my build

Been looking at this thread (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/suggestions-controller-249400/index6.html) And getting some great ideas for my build. Biggest problem is I do not have 240v in my garage so I need to keep it to 120v. Was tossed up between a PID and BCS 460 build. I think the...