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I've been looking at Kals 30+ gallon Box for the past week or so... It seems with the larger contactors even with the DIN components there is not quite room for four contactors, I had given up on the dual element HLT plan But had figured out how to fit three elements worth of breakers etc on the...

That is EXACTLY what I need. How do you handle switching the second HLT element on and off without blowing the 50amp limit? Any chance a shot at the front of your panel for your interface layout? looks like you fond some smaller Contactors and DC supplies? Its a shame that Kal is charging...

a bit above my pay grade, I think I get what your saying though... Esters are chemicals created by yeast? John Kimmich is the Hop master to ask EDIT: Hop "resins" may have been the correct term

As i understand wet milling is part of the fun... One of the problems with the mythical low oxygen brewing is it is soo easy to mess it up. I read that it only takes one min of o2 exposure to "ruin" the LODO brewing effect. hence high precautions at every stage are needed, no step can be...

The Boil kettle was built on the concept that pumps after the boil can damage Hop esters A concept gained from Alchemist brewing as I understand the story. So those are a set of CO2 valves on the top of the kettle to pressurize the BK after boil to move the wort through the chiller into the...

I have a three vessel RIMS system and just picked up an interesting kettle that was able to pressurize to transfer the boiled wort into the fermentor. I don't know if im going to use it for my BK as I'm pretty happy with my current BK... But what about as a mash tun. once you have boiled...

I got ya, So even at the price point there is more competition out there to be found. I'll keep up the research! thanks

is there some Auber panel hate I don't know about? I've been out of the game for a few years.... And yes I love Kal's panels, just trying to settle on a budget i'm happy with.

Looks like a nice piece of kit for $1k DIY form. $1500 assembled. which in my case might be worth it... I only see one mention of it when I do a search

this is why i'm a bit concerned about my panel building ability... This was my last "attempt" sitting in pieces for years... Can't think of why I gave up on it. Looks like I was building it for my 120v RIMS loop. Has a switch for a pump and an dAuber SYL2362 in it. two outlets in the back...

He ended up having to move to a new city and I'm guessing the idea of setting it all up again after tearing it all down was not high on his priorities list. Plus I think he enjoyed building the system more than the actual brewing side. A lot of the PLC stuff ended up in different systems of...

I have a lot to learn to build my own panel design in 240v. I've tried building 120v ones in the past and didn't have great success... But I'm open to options. to get Kals panel is going to be at least a year away as I'm planning this out(girlfriends in grad school, money tight). Also boil...

Kind of sucks that Copper in general is more expensive than SS... But I can get 1/2 copper tube for $1 per foot. SS has to be ordered and its Trimixdiver1, I actually have his old IRIMS and his kettles. Problem I'm having is fuguring out how to power it with common Electric brewing panels...

Well that put me down a Google rabbit hole... Looks like 25' of 1/2" SStube has a surface area of 3.27 sqft. This companies 3 ton chiller claims 3.55 Sqft of chiller area... And in a much smaller footprint. I can't honestly say mine will cost much less than 1 - 2 hundred when done anyway. I...

looks like there is plenty enough room for at least eight "passes", buying from stainless brewing for example would cost $40 for eight 3' sections. though I do need an odd number to exit on the far side. Its preboil so not sure how much I care about the idea of silicon tubing for the turns.

I suppose four to five runs of 4ft each would give me 20ft of tube in the heat exchange. I think I saw a post about optimal length somewhere i need to dig up. obviously I could do the experimenting... But apparently straight tube is not cheap... almost more than coiled it seems. The turns at...

With .75" pitch spacing, 1/2" tube and 40 turns would be around 30ft of coil... BUT sounds like its tough to turn SS coil much tighter than 6"

Not using the outer coil, taking that off. putting new coil INSIDE the pipe

Yeah probably have to wrap it, what would be the difference in efficiency of a coil in the HLT vs a tube? I know the previous owner of this system abandoned a HERMS exchanger due to slow ramp times. but can't figure what the difference would be. Just too much loss in the plumbing?

This is the idea, ignore the outer copper coil, I'm going to remove that... Hopefully my bending skills are better than my paint skills