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Well, my plan is to shoot for 6.5 gallons (13 for 10 gallon batches) and then check the gravity and adjust the wort accordingly with water or LME. I'm just trying to see how I can figure out what the gravity at 6.5 gallons should be if, for instance, I am shooting for 1.048 @ 5.5 gallons.

OK, thanks Pappers, that makes sense. On a note related to pre-boil volume....recipies never (or rarely) mention what your pre-boil gravity should be...only what it should be after your boil. Is there any way to figure out what your pre-boil gravity should be so long as you know all the other...

Mine are just standard 1/2" SS ball valves.

How so? Just by measuring the amount of water that leaves the HLT?

I was *about* to suggest that you open one yourself until I read that last bit. Man, second to running my own brewery, owning my own LHBS store is a dream of mine.

OK, maybe what I'll do then instead is to have a stir stick with gallon markings on the side. I have two megapots, a 10 and 15 gallon, both with ball valves and brewmometers. for 5 gallon batches the 10 gallon will be the BK and the 15 gal will be the HLT. Once I get a 10 gallon cooler and I...

You mean to tell me there's not a good homebrew supplies store on Staten Island???

Well, I plan on doing batch sparging, so would I not drain the first runnings entirely before adding the sparge water? That way I imagine the grain bed would have settled and I'd see the volume of the saturated grain by using the volume markings inside the cooler.

Do you think you would ever make one just to protect a weldless thermometer? ie a Brewmometer fitted into a Megapot? (my set-up) Oh, and I could definitely see myself buying the one featured in the last picture above to protect my ball valves.

Hey all, I'm about to do my first "real" AG batch this week, having done 3 BIAB batches previously...not a fan of the BIAB. Anywhooo, I have a Rubbermaid 5 gallon MT and was wondering if it's sufficient to use the volume markings on the inside of the MT on top of the grain bed to calculate...

It works now, thanks!

This is an excellent idea, but maybe I'm missing something 'cos I can't get it to work? After completing all the fields and hitting "calculate" nothing appears in the "Adjust by adding:" field. Do I need a plug-in or something? Thanks! Nick

The best way to determine the volume of your pot is to find the volume in cubic inches and divide by 231, which is the number of cubic inches in a gallon. I find it's more precise than pouring in water from a container. Then take your total volume in gallons and divide the inside height of...

You can't be serious...my 10 gallon stainless steel megapot has 1mm thick walls and it's tough as nails. Maybe you were referring to 1mm thick aluminum but 1mm thick SS is very rigid.

My brew buddy does BIAB all the time without a strainer basket with good results. He puts one of those stainless steel folding colanders at the bottom of his brew kettle with a length of stainless stell wire attached to it. That keeps the bag off the bottom of the kettle and he just removes the...

Well, I think your idea of circulating the wort will help, as one batch was noticeably better regarding efficiency, and for that batch I lifted the strainer basket out of the water several times during the mashing process which might have a similar effect to what you're talking about. Also...

If your basket fits just fine inside the kettle I'm sure you won't have any issues, but that 1" of space I had made temp control a big headache for me.

The strainer basket is the reason I am switching over to "real" AG brewing. My basket is smaller than the brew pot, leaving about 1" of space in between the two. The water in that space WOULD NOT drop to the desired temps when grain was added. So while the grain bed for the mash was at about...

Where in Ontario can you do that?!? (the last part :) )

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