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I always just use my stir plate.

Dark Horse bottles are the worst. The adhesive turned into a gummy mess after the paper disintegrated. I probably could have used citrus solvent or paint thinner but I just gave up and recycled them.

My first thought would be a block of ice, blowtorch, and copper tube. Heat up the tube, set down on ice, repeat. Or just use the business end of the blowtorch directly on the ice.

Ask the brewery if they will sell you one. That is how I have gotten a few of my handles.

Priming sugar (Dextrose) is completely fermentable by yeast. DME is not. The result of this is that DME may contribute additional malty flavor depending on the beer. Additionally, you will have to use a larger amount of DME to achieve the same CO2 production as dextrose. Like Edcculus said...

:off: By the way, has anyone seen this beast in person? It looks terrifying. http://www.mashmaster.com/p/461095/millmaster-grain-mill-body-does-not-include-hopper-and-crank-handle.html

Wow... didn't mean to ruffle so many feathers. I must have been spacing out when I was reading up on the crankandsteins but for whatever reason I remembered them using bearings. After looking again, I guess you are right. My mistake. And perhaps you all are right that for mills in the...

Many people use pulleys on their mills and bearings better deal with radial loading than bushings. Now, perhaps the uneven wearing and higher friction under load isn't a concern for the average homebrewer and this doesn't really matter at all. As for the extra cost, crankandstein does it for...

I am not a big fan of the monstermills use of bushings over bearings. It seems like a cheapskate move given only 4 are required and the product is $100+. Maybe it doesn't matter but given all the people using pulleys/gearing, it seems like bearings would be a good idea.

Here you go: https://morebeer.com/search?search=mpt+stone&=Search

UV sanitizers work by effing up the microorganism's DNA. Check it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UV_water_disinfection

I use one of these for my kegerator and for that function it works great. In my opinion this would make a poor brewery controller. While the on / off, timers, multiple IOs work fine, the lack of PID logic and slow clumsy web interface would make things challenging. Overall, the unit's...

The FDA recommends 60 - 95% alcohol solutions so stick with 151.

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I use one of these for my kegerator: Amazon.com: Webcontrol Universal Network Enabled Timer Temperature Humidity I/o Controller: Electronics It was easy to setup and works well.

Here is a fantastic article: http://www.prochiller.com/files/AllAboutGlycol.pdf In short, use propylene glycol. You can buy the RV PG but it may degrade faster.

Logistically, you should be fine installing one into your setup. The push back is only a few degrees. That said, I have 2 575s and 3 525s and my take on the whole creamer thing is it is a waste of time. You can achieve a nearly identical result by just partially opening the tap. Perhaps...

The 5 gpm eccentric pump requires 750 in lbs @ 150rpm (~1.8HP ). This may not be all that cheap after all. That said, I am pretty sure I don't achieve the 7 gpm that my march pump is speced at so 5 gpm may be overkill.

All the info I have seen has pointed to a CFM calculation of 1 CFM for every 100 BTUs. I think this mostly applies to residential installations and may not be quite as applicable in the range of BTUs you may be hitting.