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Thanks IP. I actually purchased the control panel (used) off Ebay with the circular holes already punched. I actually cut the square openings with a jigsaw and lots of lube. As far as the labels go though...yes made at work. :)

Some of the electrical parts coming together. Stainless goods Control panel cut. Switches, Timer and PID's installed. Still waiting for buzzer/indicator alarm. (It's coming from Hong Kong)

You might consider this. Look under "weld on tank fittings" http://www.mcmaster.com/#tank-fittings/=avzavx

Thanks Steve! I actually got a lot of inspiration from your setup.

Awesome weldless sight glass from Bobby. Tri-clamp heating elements wired and in place. Wires dropped into control panel. I am accumulating a lot of electrical parts, but still waiting on a few items to get the control panel underway. An aerial view of the kettles. MLT on the right and...

Progress is slow as pieces for this build trickle in. Well that and having money to buy those pieces. Kettles have been welded and ready for installation Unistrut installed for control panel mounting Holes drilled for bottom draining kettles and RTD wires.

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As you may already know... approx. 1/4" of the end of the RTD is the only place where the platinum resistence element is affected by temperature. The remaining length is just a sheath.

That's the most awesome steam hood ever!!!

Still being somewhat new to the brewing world. I was under the thinking that at some point during the brewing process it was necessary to run both heating elements at the same time, therfore requiring two 20A outlets. Knowing now that is not necessary I would like to continue with my original...

Thanks!! 1.5" tri-clover x 1" female NPT. $19 from Brewers Hardware

Yup! Stevehaun is correct. Page 7 of the manual "DC option". Sorry for the false info.

Where are you guys finding relatively cheap DIN mount circuit breakers? I have been searching the net only to find these things are pricey!