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A brewing buddy of mine put together an amazing guide to using wood for brewing. It looks at techniques, at the different flavors you get from various wood types, at various toasting levels, and a good bit more. It's an excellent read. Primer to brewing with wood.

Happy to help. I'm a big believer that paying for good tools is a wise investment.

Could not be happier with it. Here's a quote from a brewing friend who ended up buying one on my advice:

This is the answer. Washing yeast is for the birds. Make your starter a little bigger than you need, save some of it, use it for the next time you brew. I personally re-use my White Labs vials, or put it into soda bottle preform blanks (which are the same thing).

Very interesting idea. I will tinker with it.

Current temp is probably close enough, but technically, again, use the highest temp the beer achieved post fermentation. Doesn't matter if you cold crash or not. Cold crashing has zero to do with the amount of priming sugar needed. As for when to mix the sugar - I used to dump the...

Thanks. Glad you can find it to be useful.

Thanks for the positive feedback. Hmmm, interesting ideas, kraken. I can honestly say those won't be immediate, but they are worth thinking about. Selectable units is on the upcoming updates list.

New update! Added logic on the multi starter step that saves overall starter volume. The old method would try to get as close to possible to your needed cell count in every step, then add a step if necessary. This actually resulted in more total wort being needed. Take a brewer with a...

Okay, Eric - that bug should be fixed. Running your numbers, I am now advised to pitch 2.157 liters and harvest .343.

That's a legit bug report. Hang on, I'll address it.

Feature update: I just added the ability for you to specify your own custom pitch rate, as opposed to picking only from ale (.75 million cells/ml), lager (1.5 million cells/ml), or hybrid (1 million cells/ml).

Re: the calendar date - I may consider adding this, I can see the value. Re: the overbuild - this amount is factored in all along. If the calculator can get you to your desired amount for brewing + the overbuild in one step, it will. If not, it keeps going until that it done. However, the...

Durr. I just bought more of the stupid stuff. That's what I get for trying to make tons of posts while theoretically also trying to work. Edited the post in question, thanks.

Psh, no worries. I could simply see somebody going and saying, "man, that a-hole homebrewdad is such a sellout. He wants people to pay to use his stupid calculator!"

lol... I'm guessing that was a typo. No need to "buy" it, it's free. ;) Fridge for overbuild unless you are planning to add glycerine. Freezing causes yeast cells to expand and cell walls to burst, which leads to death. I personally use the same 20% per month calculation. So next...

This is categorically incorrect. Source: I have written a priming sugar calculator. For temp, provide the highest temp that the beer achieved, post fermentation. Not the current temp. Not the cold crash temp. Not the temp the bottles will be sitting at. Here's why: During...

Basically, I'm assuming that you are adding the full amount of any subsequent steps to your leftover yeast slurry/wort from the previous step. It's not enough of a factor to worry about the exact amount that you have left, especially since the Troester methods key on the amount of available...

No problem. Chill your first starter once it's done - at least overnight. This will make the yeast flocc out and form a solid layer on the bottom of the flask (some yeast varieties require a longer cold crash than do others). Decant most of (i.e. gently pour it out until almost all of the...

Happy to help.