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I have started a build for an E-BIAB system base on this one and have a couple wiring questions. Looking at the switch diagram, could I go from one X1 post to another and run the neutral wire from the last switch back to the incoming wire(kind of like a jumper from one X1 post to another)...

Count me in, could always use more stuff.

jeffmeh, What you described is my current plan and I understand the risks, would like to do the 4 wire from the breaker box but only have one spot available. Right now that kind of renovation/addition is not in the budget, eventually I will have a 30A breaker installed and a plug added to the...

The dryer plug is three prong, would it still require a three wire plus a ground? Am planning to run it through the spa panel for the gfci.

Wanted to know if this would be ok to use from the dryer plug to the spa panel and for the element cord? http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-cords/extension-cords/10-3-25-sjeoow-cord/p-1462690-c-6410.htm Thanks

A bunch of stuff from Auber to begin working on an E-biab setup.

Have another question, maybe I can get a response this time. After reading the thread on the switchcraft connectors wanted to know if these would be ok since they did not specify the locking ones. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049BODBS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Thought the locking would be...

I think that I have the wiring diagram figured out Let me know what you think.

I am looking at putting together a system based on the johnodon build and had some questions about some parts and adding an alarm to the wiring diagram. First question is what type of plug receptacles do I use to build the wire from the element to the control box? Second is would it be...

He mentioned running this outlet through a spa panel in the OP, wouldn't that allow him to have 4 lines coming out and draw the 120 off one of the hot legs and the new neutral?

I got a refractometer and a membership to the AHA that came with Brewing Better Beer. Also got the go ahead to start an electric system and not have to use all of my bonus from work, so a mill may be in the future.

Did the same thing except used the 10 inch collar instead. Also, if you don't want to have to drill you can set it in the tab side up and have them interlock with the pot supports. Have used mine on several brews with great success and no problems with the heat melting or warping anything.

Rethinking this, I would have to make it a straight 240 system with a slightly bigger element in the 2.5 gallon system. This is assuming that there are 2000-3000W 240 elements available. It would limit the portability of the smaller system, but then again how often do you brew away from home.

I am planning a build for a 2.5 gallon system with a PID controller similar to jrb03's, but I would also like to be able to make the occasional 5 gallon batch in a separate pot. Am able to do basic wiring and would be looking for any recommendations on what would be needed to do this. It would...

As far as paint, I would say something neutral that will not draw the eyes away from the brewery. You've made it too nice to have the wall color overshadow it.

Can't give you an opinion on that kegerator, but you will, at a minimum, need kegs with hoses and disconnects for both gas and liquid along with a CO2 source. There are several places that sell the basic kit with everything needed.

If it was me I would go with one of the small batch kits, that should produce a better product than the Mr Beer with just slightly more work.

Use the silver insulation wrap and then put a couple blankets over the kettle, lose a degree or two over an hour. Also, like to stir it a couple times during the mash.

I haven't actually timed it, but from mash temps I would think about 15-20 minutes. Takes about 30 minutes or so to get to strike temps from 70 degree water.

Thanks for the reply, I was just curious if t was an easy change. I also do BIAB so no need for a second burner, but I did make a wind guard and it helped a lot with the heating.