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You could also put a u-shaped section (like in a sink trap) of pipe or pvc on the upper end (cord end) and make the heatstick the right length so the u section hooks over the edge of the pot and holds the element off the bottom.

Read this. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-water-chemistry-primer-198460/

It would also be a little more entertaining if you threw in a couple frames of something like you dry humping your girlfriend when she walked in to check on you or a couple of furries dropping by for a dance party. Like this->:ban:

I use this calculator at the bottom, seems accurate for my setup. http://manskirtbrewing.com/calcs.shtml

Putting hot wort into a glass carboy (non-Borosilicate glass) is a good way to make it shatter causing you to lose your beer and injure yourself.

You can no chill any kind of beer. You just need to adjust the timing of the hop additions. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/no-chill-hop-utilization-125844/ Also its a good idea to use a container that you can seal (i.e. if you use a pot make sure it has a tight fitting lid).

If you really want to go all grain with a minimum investment you could try BIAB. Also I wouldn't use ph 5.2 I'd actually get my water tested through ward labs and read the water chemistry primer on here. I'd also recommend having some DME on hand in case your efficiency is low your first few...

How is this wrong? Its been pretty well established you don't make starters for dry yeast. From mrmalty.com "Another case where you generally don’t want to make a starter is with dry yeast. It is usually cheaper and easier to just buy more dry yeast than it would be to make a starter large...

You don't need a starter for dry yeast. Rehydration is fine. Starters are for liquid yeast. You can pitch both but why? If you already have 1056 make a big enough starter. See www.mrmalty.com for details.

Is all sauermalz the same? This is where I buy my ingredients from http://craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=808 where they state a 50-55% acid rate. Would I still use 2% of total grist or does that vary depending on the acidity of the malt?

I use starsan myself. But the maker of starsan talked about a homemade bleach based no rinse sanitizer. Others here have tried it with success. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Homemade_No_Rinse_Sanitizer

Yea don't worry about it, your beer is fine. Most people don't secondary anymore for the majority of beers. Read the stickies in the beginners section. I'll start your off here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/vs-pro-con-analysis-109318/#post1204663 Also don't forget to take a couple of...

Sounds like you want to do an electric BIAB. Do a search on here, some people have done it already, super simple with one pot. Scubasteve has a good build thread on here, but you don't have to go as "blingy" as he does.

That is understandable, its easy to spend way too much money in this hobby. But a barley crusher is $115 and corona mills are like $20-30. If you start buying grain in bulk it will pay for itself. Something to think about anyways.

Maybe I missed something because I didn't read the whole thread. Why can't you just buy your own mill and that way you can still have the convenience of picking up unmilled grain from the close LHBS and get a good crush?

If I were you I'd probably just aim to reduce my final volume by a gallon or so. A big imperial stout isn't a session beer anyways so you might not even miss those few extra bottles.

Lets see some pictures!

Do a search for "chill haze"

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/

False Alarm! After going over to her house to check out the situation first hand, the bottles are breaking because she had them push all the way to the back, right against the chilling plate. The bottles in the back are touching the plate, and freezing, causing the bottles to break. Thanks all.