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Let's do the math. Two cans of Mr. Beer Mix. That would be 2 x 1.2 lbs of malt extract @ 36 points per lb = 86 points + ~2/3 package (13 oz) booster (about 1/2 lb @ 42 pts per lb) = 21 points. 86 points + 21 points = 107/2.2 = 48.5 or 1.0485. So your reading of 1.046 is close to what I would...

Sorry, I meant "low-medium in alcohol." Scott

One thing you need to verify is whether or not this has done any fermenting up to this point. A hydrometer is indispensable for determining this. The folks at the LHBS can tell you how to use it. It is not inconceivable that your beer has actually fermented already, but you simply haven't...

Your yeast may be dead. My recommendation is for you to go as quickly as possible to your LHBS and pick up a package of yeast, e.g. Cooper's, re-hydrate the contents of it in a 1/2 cup of body temperature water for 10 minutes, then pour into your MB "fermenter." You've got a Northern Brewer...

It's only cheating if you get caught!

I think you can get yeast bite in as little as a month, but that would probably only happen at VERY warm temperatures in that amount of time. We're on the Gulf Coast where we have already hit 100°F once and 105°F twice in the last week. That's hot even for us, so we're a little extra cautious...

In the short to medium run, I don't think there is much of a difference between a loose cap (e.g. MB) and an airlock because of the very reason you point out: CO2 is heavier than air and will protect the beer. But in the long run, I do think that CO2 layer will be dissipated simply because there...

I've definitely experienced "yeast bite" in beers that I can attribute to extended contact with dead/dormant yeast. I can't say that it has been a major issue, though. I strongly suspect that storage temperature is a factor here. Elevated storage temperatures combined with dead yeast can lead...

I've been brewing for over thirty years, and my experience is that once you've crossed that 5 - 6% alcohol by volume range, aging times need to go up to allow that "hot" high alcohol taste to mellow and meld into the other flavors. This does not just pertain to booster or sugar derivative...

Why not!

Minnbrew wrote:"Ok so I found a beer I would love to try and clone, I figure I could also take this to my brew shop but looking for advice here on recipe creation. I have 2 MB kegs so could do almost a full 5 gallons eventhough it says only 2 gallons each, Can I go higher than 4 gallons with...

If you brewed the recipe on the Mr. Beer site, it's got 2 x 1.2# of malt extract for a total of 2.4# malt extract for 2+ gallons of beer. That's not bad (especially compared to the single can & booster original recipe), but it's still not exactly what I would call full-bodied. The apple smell...

I don't know if there is a thread or not, but bypassing the bottle conditioning does require a fair amount of equipment. You'll need: CO2 tank Regulator Cornelius Keg (soda canister) Quick Disconnects Tubing & fittings Filter & Filter cartridge Counter-Pressure filler or Beer Gun Most...

Jollytim, Yes, I started at the beginning of the posts, but, of course, that was dating back to 2007. But, as I have seen numerous comments from new posters with these same issues coming up time and again, I'm guessing not everybody starts reading the posts starting with Day One. I was...

Some general comments for those who feel like they should stay with the Mr. Beer equipment because they don't want to make 5 gallon batches. There is nothing engraved in stone that says that you have to make a certain number of gallons per batch with "regular" homebrew. I've had customers make...

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