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So I believe I have this :) I would need to add some resistance to the signal wires in my setup. I am not using Swissflows, but these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD4JXLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Not sure if anyone else is using those, but how did you find the...

What does, 'Second point is there has to be a resistive pull-up connected to the meter's data line, which usually is a discrete resistor to 5V, though apparently some have relied on invoking the internal AVR pull-up capability on the UNO, which is not something I would want to hang my hat on...'...

Well I am clearly missing something here. I initially thought I could go Red --> 5V, Black --> GND and the signal wires to the digital input pins of the R3. If there is some other instructions out there for the R3, I will follow them first, without taking up anyone's time.

Ok, I made that change. This is probably really stupid, but I stopped following the online docs once I used the automated install. Do I need to follow this: http://raspberrypints.com/byo/step-9-configure-pi-hardware-flow-meters-wflow-meters/ I am using an Uno R3 and I definitely do not have...

I am at a loss on what to do next. I have a new build and I cannot get consistent pour readings. Initially, I think I had a bad serial cable from my RP to my Uno R3. Replaced that and still, no pours being registered. I have checked the continuity all the way from the meters to the 5v...

Sorry to dig up this old comment, but I am having the same issue with foaming because or turbulence. I initially used the go-to beer line length calculator and found that 5.5 should be the perfect length. I have about 2 ft of line before the meter so I can reach any keg I need and extended out...

Will ship for free

I observed what is going on. I have been brewing 10G batches. I put one on the tap and both on gas to keep the spare carbonated. When I make longer pours (filling a mini keg), there seems to be just enough of a pressure drop in my gas side to allow a little beer to be draw back into the gas...

I’m definitely keeping this 😊 This goes against everything I’ve read here, but nothing has worked for me. I ordered a bunch more line and plan to try this.

I do have an issue with kegs that are not tapped, but I keep them on CO2, with beer back flowing into the CO2 line. Where do you typically place these? I use a gas distribution block. Closer to the keg fitting or the distribution? I am leaning closer to the keg quick connect so less line gets...

What backflow valves are you using?

Actually I might be able to get you a pre-printed shipping label. What are the box dimensions and ~ weight?

I already have a glycol chiller so wouldn’t need that or the controller.

You must have the cooling kit too?

Shipping to 55068?

Sorry, but I should have explained 😊 I didn’t install flow controls, but had them from my old setup and lines. Sorry I don’t quite get this, but it I want to slow the beer, add longer lines? I inferred that after watching that Kegco video where they explained that the beer loses pressure as it...

So I just upgraded to 4mm Eva lines and I am getting all kinds of foam. I do use Perlick FCs and if I restrict them to almost closed, I can mostly control it, bit it is a huge difference (not in a good way) over my old think-walled lines. I ran the number through Determining Proper hose length...

I took my unused barbed sensor apart and the modification would be very easy.

Just an FYI on leaking under the glycol reservoir. I had this issue earlier in the year and called Penguin. What the guy told me was that older (earlier this year models) may have an issue where the temp probe goes into the reservoir. It’s the smaller tube with a black wire coming out. Anyway...

I saw in a thread last night that someone disassembled them and drilled them out. FYI, I bought those by accident. I later bought the quick connection version and they don’t have that smaller diameter hole.