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It's really not the grains. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

No dry hopping in a sweet stout, and malts were straight from LHBS (which I assume has reasonable quick turnover of grain). Wish there were another answer, but I'm afraid I'm stuck with the bacteria theory. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Thanks Unionrdr, that's what I was looking for. Unfortunate, since I suppose I'll have to dump this milk stout then. The cream ale actually tastes pretty good, almost like a summer shandy, but that milk stout is pretty gross.

I appreciate the response, but you're not correct. look, this is how it is: My wine tasted vinegary because of an acetic acid bacterial infection. Search wine making sites if you don't believe me. My cream ale tastes cidery because acetaldehyde is a byproduct of the production of acetic acid...

TL/dr: I have a milk stout that I suspect of having picked up an acetaldehyde flavour from bacterial infection during bottling. Will this flavour ever age out? It's kind of undrinkable right now. Background: First batch of wine: tasted WONDERFUL at bottling, a few weeks later, the whole batch...

Agree about coppers initial cost. I spent about $55 for my 50ft of tubing. However, something to consider (if you're a closet hippie like me) is that you are using 15-25 minutes worth of extra water that I presume gets wasted. Over the life of the chiller (hundreds of brews?) that's a HUGE...

Sometimes it's like people dont even read before posting.... Haha No need for the starsan. Also, no, an IC will not drop your wort to pitching temps by just dropping it in at flameout. You may drop the wort a few degrees, but I doubt it would even take it to below 200 if the IC had been...

Graci! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Amen Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Thanks guys, I appreciate the answers. The reason he told me that was because I'd mentioned that I always brew 6 gallon batches to account for my consistent 1 gallon yeast cake/etc loss when primary is done. He shat himself that I was getting a whole gallon, and insisted I describe my brew...

Well that is logical. If you don't adjust you heat down through the boil, you are introducing the same amount of heat to a smaller volume of water, which would increase the vigor of the boil, thereby increasing boil off rate. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

So speaking to my LHBS guy the other day, he advised me that excess trub in the fermenter will enhance a stale flavour in my beer. Specifically he said only to transfer crystal clear wort, and to leave anything that looked like egg drop soup. Now I BIAB, dunk sparge, hit 75% efficiency or more...

+ 5 gallons of milk stout + 5 gallons of cream ale + 5 gallons of Irish red = 5172 Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Interested to hear the answer to this. I boil off 1.5g during a 60m boil in a 7.5g pot. I too have been under attenuating. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Agree, I use a 50ft IC. Saturday my groundwater was at 48 and I chilled 5g to 65 in just under 6 minutes. In summer it's slower (significantly) but still under 15m. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Agree. My last batch (Saturday) I added it at flameout for exactly that reason. I think I will continue to do so in the future. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Anyone else had experience with the $12 meter? I'm definitely interested in that price! Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Thanks for the responses guys. So I guess what I'm asking is, with all those water additions that I do, it doesn't change the efficiency calc at all? I cant do full volume beginning to end, I only have a 7.5 gallon pot.

I'm looking for a formula that I can use to calculate my brewhouse efficiency. I'm afraid I've been playing with this for a while now, but haven't figured out how to actually work this out. My brewing method doesn't seem to fit well with software or online calculators. I do some weird stuff...

Facepalm... Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew