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I secondary on some beers and others not. I recently made a phenomenal pilsner that sat in the same fermentor for 2+ months through primary, diacetyl rest, and lagering. On other batches that need to be dryhopped or have adjuncts added I'll rack to secondary in 7-10 days. It depends on what you...

Check to see if your fermentor is sealed up tight. What temp are you fermenting at? What yeast? Get a new hydrometer asap.

PBW absolutely. Warm water and PBW with a long soak. 3/4-1 oz. per gallon and you'll be good to go.

I should've said yes it's possible to look at a sample and estimate based off that... Either way there is no simple test to perform as a new homebrewer to determine the exact number of your 230+ billion cells that survived. I doubt you'll have any reason to question the viability of yeast for...

Unless you're brewing a high gravity beer I wouldn't even bother worrying about it. There is not an exact way to tell how much died and how much survived. In my experience even without rehydration I've always ended up with the same result... beer. Which I'm guessing is your primary concern! Dry...

Follow their directions and the yeast will survive. If your fermentor is sealed up well you will see signs of fermentation in the airlock and life will be joyous. If by some freak chance you don't see signs of fermentation via airlock or hydrometer then go buy more yeast and pitch it in...but...

I only recently started rehydrating in wort and similarly Fermentis only recently suggested it...maybe they know something that we don't know about their product. I'm not discrediting anyone's opinion but I doubt they would advise you to rehydrate their yeast in wort if it produced undesirable...

My maple double porter.

I wouldn't consider these brews from last weekend low gravity: Double Porter OG 1.086 IPA OG 1.072 NW Lager 1.068 I brew AG and always aerate my wort in the fermentor, using the classic shake it up method for 30 seconds...never had a problem before. There's more than one way to skin a...

I've had what appears to be silky white bubbles on top and the batch turned out fine. A pic would help determine though.

My method has produced better results for me than just sprinkling into the wort. Also I've tried the water rehydration and based on a few trials of each method the wort rehydration takes off faster and has better attenuation but I'm not testing this in a lab...and the end result is the...

This style of bottle is called a Jeroboam. I have a few of the different ones Stone and Rogue have done over the years... My 2 cents: $65-80 for 3 liters of beer is robbery! Cool bottles yes but not that cool.

I've been using fermentis dry yeast for a while. Recently I noticed that they have the rehydration instructions on their new pdf and gave it a shot. I have to say it's given me good results. My method is to reserve 1 liter of wort from my mash. While my boil is going on I sterilize the...

I generally brew to style the first time I try a new style of beer and then go off the beaten path on subsequent brews. I like to design a beer to be to style and then subsequently adapt it to my tastes. For example I made a German pilsner that was german pilsner malt and all noble hops. While...

Aside from the other things mentioned in this thread I would prime by weight not volume. Like 1 ounce per gallon vs 2/3 cup. My 2 cents...

My ipa. Probably have a ryepa next.

+1

38k btu will boil that volume. It will take a little longer to reach a rolling boil. I'd opt for something 50k or larger but a 38k burner will still work better than a stove top.

That will work. I've been using a 65k for a long while. Just upgraded to a 220k and while it does boil faster they both reach the same end result...beer.

Just finished a bottle of my German pilsner. Now the wife and I are splitting a bomber of CDA.