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You can use LME also. pour in 3 lb and mix well. 3lb LME in 5gal of 1.022 wort will get you to 1.044, great for a dry stout.

Pull the grain basket, let drain as you start to heat to boil. after it's drained some, start pouring water over it, trying to pour everywhere. I use a 1 gallon polycarbonate measuring cup. 2 gallons to pour for a 10 gallon batch should be fine.

No, I don't think that matters either way. Boiloff is just something you need to account for, whether it is 0.1gal or 2gal. It can be used to concentrate high gravity worts also for strong beers.

Put in some water. Drain it like you would when transferring to a fermentor. dump all remaining liquid into a bucket and see how much you have. Boom, there's your 'dead space' volume loss. I personally use 13.5g water with 19-20lb grain, 30-45min boil at 50% on a 5500w element, to get a 1.045...

Hm, on that topic, I wonder 1) what parts might be good to keep on hand and 2) if a rheostat override could easily be wired in to the base controller, for emergencies. Electrical guys?

Apfelwein is a subcategory of Hard Cider. Has the ABV bumped up by adding sugar.

Don't worry about any of it. People do "wort rallys" all the time -- a brewery parcels out unboiled wort, and you take it home to finish. Edit: if wort is hot, use HDPE buckets. HDPE is the only heat-tolerant common homebrewing container.

Update: After conditioning for a while, I decided that the lemongrass flavor was unbalanced and somewhat one-dimensional (Note that it may have been fine if I had used a properly acid-balanced and more tannic cider from a kit, instead of filtered store juice). I use some ginger to balance it...

Same here, EXCEPT that I get crazy foam on adding it cold. Taking it out cold (if I even bother) tends to be less touchy, though I still use a tray -- twice bitten thrice shy.

Have you used that in finished beer? I've heard that it needs heat to properly mix, and that it (and all non-specified hop extracts) is a generic mix high-alpha bittering hops. I'd go with dry-hops.

I put an oz of bagged hops into a mostly-cold, fully carbed, keg -- forgetting what 'nucleation' was. It involved a rather large mess and a lot of towels. I never open a non-empty keg without a big drip tray under it, now (cement mixing tray, $5 at any home-improvement store. I have several...

Getting the keg as cold as possible, putting it in a tray/bucket to catch the potential overflow, and being VERY fast to get the lid on and closed. like, the lid is halfway in the keg as you carefully prepare to let the hops bag contact the beer, then close it within 1-2 seconds. Practice on an...

yes no yes

You might be surprised how many people have switched from 3-vessel to single-vessel in the past few years. There are a lot of really convenient eBIAB systems out there that cost a lot less than a 3-vessel to buy or build. 3-vessel isn't inherently an improvement, unless there is a specific...

You aren't the only one -- even the yeast labs don't yet tend to publish the K factors on their non-wine yeasts. I asked every lab at NHC2017 and none of their people knew if such a list even existed for beer yeasts (neither the marketing people nor the lab/biologists).

I'd agree, from my general experience and reading about mixed fermentations. Even the articles about trying to make a sour or funky mead note that you pretty much have to intentionally take special steps/ingredients to do so.

2 gallon glass, and add a stainless spigot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWC0E42/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Then bottle right from that into swing top bottles.

not NEIPA, but, a good modern non-caramalt IPA.

Yes. Even less might work.

Here's where some applied highschool chemistry comes in handy! Particles are floating because they are nucleation sites, so the CO2 comes out of solution on them, attaches to them as bubbles, and makes them float. What I do to get anything to sink (krausen, pellet hops, etc): -raise temperature...