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Correct! As long as you haven't reached your yeasts alc tolerance it will prime just the same.

With EC 1118 and such a high OG, it is going to take a bit of aging to mellow. It is probably going to taste like hooch for a while!

No offense, if you are going to use so much water you might as well make a graff. Also, it is going to be really hot at first and take some time to mellow out. It will probably taste watered down and very little flavor will come from the sugar you use.

It will usually make it look worse before it clears up. Lots of weird blobs and goop. I think it is usually recommended to let it sit for a while after adding to make sure it all settles out.

Both of my fermenters sit right on the counter in the kitchen to no ill effect.

Shouldn't. I mean, it will only be consuming the priming sugar when it is in a bottle.

I would pitch while racking and let it do most of the mixing for you .

Add wine / champagne yeast at bottling if you're worried.

If you don't see bubbles in the neck of the bottle, it has stopped fermenting.

Yeast need to be active in order to bottle condition, so they most likely won't in the fridge and definitely will not after pasteurization. Next time make a plastic bottle tester and open one until they seem good. Usually 2-7 days.

Cutting back the DME to 1lb should help. Otherwise, use a less attenuant yeast and/or backsweeten/dilute to desired abv with juice and pasteurize.

Yeast will only die from alcohol poisoning, otherwise they go dormant. Resilient little buggers!

Don't forget the wheat beer yeast! I've used Wlp300, retained a lot of the apple flavor and even had some ester production. The FG was 1.010 too, so it doesn't dry out as much.

Didn't see that you had PET bottles... they wouldn't melt in 180 degree water would they? I always put a wash cloth in the bottom of the pot to keep them from touching the hot parts. Otherwise you will have to go dry or use lactose /splenda/xylitol as already said.

It's so easy. I wonder why everyone it's always suggesting sorbate/sulfites or artificial sweeteners over back sweetening and pasteurization. Just sweeten up with juice/concentrate to taste (remember, juice will dilute your abv a lot more than concentrate. Though tastes better in the end) and...

My adaptations to recipe: Cherry Oat Graff 1lb 60L only 1lb LDME WLP300 hefeweizen yeast .5oz UK Kent Goldings hop pellets (would probably up the hops a bit next time, not very detectable in wort or final product.) 1 cup of oat groat (instead of torrified wheat. For body, mouthfeel, and head...

I prefer buckets for my primary, a lot easier than soaking a 5 gallon carboy in oxyclean for a few days to clean krausen crud!

April fools!

You need to reach somewhere around 140-150 in the bottles to reliably kill the yeast.

Just a little tip, if it started bubbling when adding the nutrient or energizer (and you added it to an already started fermentation) the perceived activity is most likely C02 being knocked out of suspension by the particles. It sounds like they are still doing fine though :)