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Underletting is the process of adding your water to the bottom of the mash tun, usually via the drain valve. This is as opposed to dumping it in from the top. The advantages are mainly if you are trying to follow Low Oxygen Brewing (aka LODO) practices because it doesn't aerate your strike...

I condition my grain. If you are getting a mealy mess, you are probably adding too much water. The ideal amount leaves the husks feeling "leathery", not damp. If I don't condition, I find I get a ton of dust sticking via static to the underside of my mill and its mounting board, so when I move...

I;ll second the size of the pours as the cause. Anymore when I drink a 12 oz botle of something commercial, I am amazed at how little volume it seems and how fast it goes. Most pours at a bar are going to be at least 14 if not 16 oz, and if you're used to German (at least Bavarian) pours...

I mean, I may be doing something wrong, but I can't seem to kill my yeast no matter how much settling/sorbat/sulfite i use.

6 months or sometimes more. And that's with adding sorbate and campden on multiple occasions prior to multiple rackings. I generally take 6-9 months to make a cider, and whenever I backsweeten, it will inevitably, eventually eat the added sugar. Sometimes it takes months, but it happens every...

I backsweeten ciders using cold crash, campden, and sorbate, but even all that together with a long settling rest, eventually a few yeast cells will begin to propagate and it will still ferment the added sugar over time. The only real way is to pasteurize and/or filter.

Finally had this beer a few weeks ago (the commercial one, not the clone). Terrible. Just terrible. I drank it with two German friends, one of whom is a huge Bitburger fan, a it's his "hometown beer". THey were both like "WTF is this?" Total C-60 bomb.

You know Northern Brewer, at least, is no longer owned by AB, right?

This is the dumbest argument for abandoning a brand I've ever heard. Do you like their beer? Keep drinking it (I personally can't stand Fat Tire, but that's me). What it sounds like is that you're not so much interested in good beer, only beer that comes from a small independent brewery. Well...

I'd vote for too much pressure. I transfer at 1-2 PSI (from a SS Brewbucket).

It shouldn't cause off flavors, but may be slow to start fermentation.

When I first went stainless, I used corny kegs for primary, and I still do when I have more batches than my 2 SS Brewtech Brewbuckets will hold. That said, I didn't love cleaning the crud from primary fermentation out of them. You know how hard it can get caked on. Hot PBW and an overnight soak...

I've never had any issues with NB. And now I shop them regularly since they're not part of Inbev anymore (I still used them occasionally even then but less).

My NEIPAs only get a 30 minute boil.

Mine came with it .

I'm not using clamps. The 4mm is not easy to get to fit and when it does, it isn't going anywhere. YMMV.

Because we are starting to realize that our palates becoming so used to oxidized beer that it actually becomes the desirable norm, is not a good state of affairs!

Or flow control ball lock QD (Kegland, I believe, available from Williams). That's what I run with 3 feet of 4mm tubing.

Because nobody wants taint in their beer!

In a nutshell, yes. The guys who are really hardcore about preventing oxidation disconnect their lines (at the QD) from the keg when not in use. That prevents the oxygen that is getting into the beer lines from diffusing into the keg. I, despite being a Low Oxygen (aka LODO) Brewer, am not...