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I know what the OP was getting at, but the discussion seemed to turn to NEIPAs dropping clear and how some consider that a bad thing. And I don’t think anybody here was crapping in the style, are they? I’m certainly not - I love a good NEIPA (too bad the multitude being brewed today are only...

People have really jumped the shark on the whole haze thing (which has now become a quest for murky and opaque, not just hazy like the progenitors of the style (Alchemist, Treehouse, Hill) showed. The haze is a byproduct, not a goal. Or at least it should be. You get people adding flour and...

I was actually thinking of trying that this weekend (oxygenate to clear Sulfites until DO starts to register, then pitch, then oxygenate). I just picked up a DO meter. But I agree that this method is out of the reach of most beginning LOBers. I’ve always pitched then oxygenated to reduce the...

Nothing wrong with Mr. Beer. Frozen Toaster waffles are still waffles, right? Maybe they aren’t as good as scratch-made fresh waffle iron waffles, but they’ll do in a pinch if that’s all you have the time or resources for. I’d rather see a newbie start out with a Mr Beer than sit on the...

The folks commenting here ARE some of the experienced LOB/LODO brewers. You have to understand that the practice is constantly evolving and our understanding of processes and sequencing is constantly evolving and is the subject of current discussion and experimentation. Much of the information...

I had a sour a few weeks ago at my local HB club meeting that would have been a decent Berliner Weiß, except that it was supposed to be a west coast IPA! [emoji23] Obviously something went horribly wrong.

And welcome to the rabbit hole. Abandon hope all ye who enter here! (just kidding - sorta) Just do yourself a favor and commit to several batches before deciding whether to keep doing it. Most people screw things up on their first batch or two and may notice only negligible improvement so some...

Actually I am using 4mm, but my lines are only about 3 feet and it takes about 15 seconds to pour a pint. If you wanted faster pours, I would try the 5mm, which I use on my gas lines.

What he (Dgallo) said. Oxidation. Period. I know there are still people who don't believe that oxygen is detrimental to beer, and it is especially so with highly hopped beers like NEIPA, but denying reality doesn't make it any less true. And the harsh taste - like eating white pepper - is...

Well, you still have 2 gallons or so in the keg, right? Maybe you can salvage that... I lost about a gallon a half once when I was just starting out fermenting in kegs - I think I was able to salvage the remainder.

I take it you are talking domestic? Because if not, Weihenstephan Helles, hands down. And I am assuming you REALLY mean domestic American Light Lager?

I've been digging their stuff too. I have their EVABarrier tubing for both liquid and gas in my kegerator and I love it. I also have their flow control ball lock QDs and they are nice, one you account for additional restriction in flow.

Yeah, you weren't clear - did the wort go into the bucket or the bucket water into the keg? If the wort went into the bucket, you hooked it up to the wrong post and fermentation pressure pushed your wort out the liquid dip tube. Ask me how I know... If your water went into the keg, jekeane's...

Sounds cool. I'd love to compare it to my Thermapen. Count me in.

Yeah, there isn't so much a temperature that will cause it to break - the issue you experienced is two significantly different temperatures in contact with the glass at the same time. If you do that again, you will get the same result. Put any hot glass in cold water and watch out. Plus glass...

On the plus side, I bet your garage floor is DELICIOUS!!

True, but if you aren't following that up with a closed transfer using purged vessels, all you are gaining is mitigating one opening of the FV. Most NEIPAs dry hop during fermentation for biotransformation, but look at all the threads about peoples' NEIPAs turning to mud in the bottle - it's...

There are ways, but they get into more advanced brewing techniques and additional equipment required. If you are at least aware and cognizant of oxygen ingress, you can do things to minimize exposure by opening the FV less (only when absolutely necessary, reducing time that the beer sits at room...

THat's not the issue - the issue is opening the FV to add the dry hops. You've just compromised the headspace of the FV, which during fermentation was full of CO2. When you open it to dry hop, you let all that CO2 escape and the headspace becomes filled with outside air chock full of oxygen...

I'm not saying don't cold crash - just do your dry hopping before you cold crash. The point of cold crashing is to clear up the beer. Dry hopping will add particulates to the beer. If you already "cleared" it and then you dry hop, you are just adding Schmutz back in. Dry hop THEN cold crash to...