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Ahh... Should have checked urban dictionary... Looks like your plan is good. You should check the details on your #6 feeder though. You might be able to change out the breaker and be able to run the "window shaker" while you brew.

As long as you don't run the window shaker (what the heck is that anyway) and the RV outlet when you brew, you should be fine with the 40A breaker (5100W @ 240 = 22A). However, #6 wire is good for at least 55A (if its copper). A 20A GFI would be fine for the 3500W element, but how do you plan...

You may have a blown fuse. I'd check before buying a new one.

Oh, and the wire you're talking about is probably THHN. If so #8 would be sufficient for 50A.

I'm not sure you can run the separate conductors on the wall. It would be better in conduit. Why not surface mount the outlet box directly on the panel?

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Looks fine to me, provided you use one of the approved relays. Here is the product bulletin: http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/previewBody/2051-102-1-3107/Spec%208895.pdf

Your plan looks good to me. I hadn't thought about mounting the outlet directly on the panel. Regarding the test button on the gfci, it just shunts a small amount of current around the sensing current transformer, which is exactly what would happen if there was a ground fault. I trust the...

Thats what it looks like. The cheapest I can find a square D 50A GFCI is close to $100, so I'll be going with the $50 GE spa panel and a $9 regular 50A breaker.

Drats... Looks the the cheapest option for me is to feed the GE panel from a regular 50A breaker in my load center.

I've seen a lot of people recommend the GE Spa panel as an inexpensive 50 amp GFI. Does anybody know if this breaker will fit in a Square D Homeline panel?