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i dry hopped citra (instead of cascade) for my last batch of beer. it's still carbing ... but oh man the way it hits your nose you know it's going to be great. i dream of a pound of citra... but at that price... it's not in my immediate future.

with that much added to your beer, no matter what you do there's going to be a LOT of trub. part of why IPA styles are so much more expensive. out of curiosity, what hops are you using ? 12 ounces sounds like a lot to my inexperienced ears. what IBU's are you aiming for ?

looks like normal krausen has subsided... i'd still give it time to condition before taking gravity readings or considering bottling.

my first batch had plenty of off flavors. i had explosive krausen (high temps and belgian yeast) ... but it was very drinkable, "pretty good" even... and i made beer that worked and get me buzzed. ... you're going to be nothing but happy with the finished product !~

this is exactly as i understand it as well

if it smells good, and you're sitting at a healthy 5.56% ... let it ride and see what it tastes like. it MIGHT get a funky taste, but it's NOT going to be harmful for you. so don't fear and drink away : )

it's important to note, Lager is treated completely different from Ale. unless you have a fermentation chamber that can keep temperatures very low, a true lager is hard to come by. that said, with that pilsner extract you can make most any flavor profile you want, by adjuncting with...

i'm still new, but is it possible this is another, more aggressive yeast strain taking over? i know there's wild yeast everywhere. but... that looks like textbook fermentation to me... i'd say that bottle was on day four if i didn't know any better.

oh this beer has all kinds of reasons to have weird tastes. what kind of beer is it? mistake porter? i used chocolate and black patent malts, but i didn't know you were supposed to crush the grains, so it got very little color / malty character. i think that's why it's so out of balance...

i just dry hopped citra hops in my last batch, and put the pellets directly into the beer, no bag, no muss.

so my batch i'm sipping, it's good given all the mistakes i made. but it's too bitter. i aimed for 50 IBU's and this stuff tastes like 70+ (it tastes like 100 if you ask swmbo) i think the farm fresh hops i got are just more potent than expected. there's no way this is only 50 IBU's...

healthy yeast is probiotic, and fights candida in the gut. nothing wrong with drinking the sediment ( or Lees ) in any beer. never noticed it gave me the runs before either, but maybe that's just me.

can you build a false bottom in the kettle, seal it with mineral oil and weld it ... then it'll heat the bottom surface evenly. : ) my vote is no to using water heater element directly on the grain.

thank you for a good laugh seriously though, where do they jingle all around to ? ...place in closet... leave for month ...

got it. mine get cellered, and only carried out a few at a time, i just leave them in one place forever, so i didn't think about carrying them around

milk crates and be done with it. is space THAT much of a premium in whatever closet or cellar these will be living in ?

i always drink my sediment. you can taste it. i don't consider a yeasty taste a bad thing... but im a belgian fan.

oh, back to the OP ... don't bottle without tracking gravity. there's NO OTHER WAY to know if it's still fermenting. you FG could be reading 1.010 and you think you're done but then it creeps further... 1.007 say ... it could even be infected and on it's way to 1.000 or less. in these...

i just leave a few hop flecks. when siphoning you're only going to get 5% at most of the gunk on the bottom. but i like cloudy beer. and i like yeasty flavor.

brewgr shows zero difference in IBU by adding hops at flame out. actually, the less boil time, the less of your hops get turned into IBU ... and subsequently, the more hops are left as aroma/flavor. so the later the addition, the less it should effect your IBU. sorry misread... late...