Search results

One thing I would add is that if you are going for a honey-brown, by using actual honey, most of the honey flavour will be lost as honey is highly fermentable. I would recommend maybe using a much smaller amount of honey and subbing in gambrinus honey malt instead. How much you use will be...

Yeah it could have been a wort heavy reading. I took it from the spigot to reduce the chance of contamination. And I probably didn't use enough extra water to allow for as much boil off. So it's the next day about 12 hours after I've pitched yeast, is it too late to add some water? At least I...

I brewed an extract imperial stout today, aiming for OG of about 1.071, ABV of about 8.1%. My method was steep the specialty malts in 2.5 gallons of water, add DME and bring to the boil, add hops, boil for 60 min, cool and add 2.7 gallons of water and pitch yeast. I ended up with an OG of 1.098...

Thanks everyone. Yeah I only bottle. Had a look at Upstate Mikes cider. Looks pretty simple so might give that one a go at a smaller capacity. Don't know much about pasturization either but I'm sure there's something in the cider forum about that. I'm embarrassed to say but I'm going for...

Looking for some feedback for my first chocolate stout recipe I've done up. I want it to be big with strong (but not overpowering) chocolate aromas. Apologies for being Australian Fermentables: 100g Patent Malt 400g Chocolate Malt 350g Crystal 120g Roast Barley 600g Dextrose 3.5kg Light DME...

I have been brewing beer for a while now, I have a decent setup and want to try my hand at cider making for the mrs. I understand from beer brewing that the sugars in the juice will ferment away leaving it quite dry - she will not like this. Is there a process to to make it really sweet post...

Thanks guys, I'm a little worried because I didn't rinse my bottling bucket at all then dumped my entire Brew in it and it is now jut sitting there because of my problem with the bottle filler that I also posted about yesterday. I'm sure it will be fine. It's all a learning process isn't it. Cheers

Yeah I had bottle bomb and plenty of gushers on my last brew and I do not want that to happen again. Maybe I'll just wait until next weekend and try again :(

So the sanitiser I use to sanitise my equipment is a standard sodium percarbonate powder that came with my original Coopers home brew setup. Now I know that starsan does not need to be rinsed but would this? Also, I'm not sure how much I should be using. The bottle says 40grams (4 cap fulls)...

Thanks guys. So if I prime again, say tomorrow, should I use a lower level of priming sugar (I used dextrose)? I guess my calc is going to out of whack now. Or will it be best to just leave it for a week and start over?

So I went to bottle my beer today. Added the priming sugar and to the bottling bucket. But when I went to put my bottling mechanism onto the spigot I couldn't find it. Is it bad for my brew to just sit in the bottling bucket ready to go for a day or two?

I couldn't move away from the Coopers kits fast enough. I did 2 of the 'just add water' kits and they turned out terrible. I figured moving on to extract and partials required very little more equipment and the beer I make has vastly improved.

What's the reasoning behind using candy sugar? I ask because I plan on doing a porter as my next one. I was heading for 3.5kg of DME and 500g of dextrose. Also, what is your OG and estimated abv for this one? Will be interested to hear how it turns out

I don't know what the difference between US and imperial gallons are but as I live in Australia too, I assume when people say 1 gallon I convert to approx 3.8 litres. Which is also equal to 4 quarts, a term that also gets thrown around a bit.

I'm making the switch to partial mash from the "just add water kits" because they are terrible. My problem is the largest kettle I have access to is 8L (just over 2 gal). Is this too small to do a decent sized batch with steeping grains? If not what procedure (volumes of water etc) would you...

I'm pretty new to this all as well so probably take this advice with a grain of malt ... But it will probably depend on how much extract and grains you have as to the hops you add. Even still, to me, 7oz of hops seems like a lot. I'd maybe start with 2oz at 60 min, 1-1.5oz at 30, then 1oz at 15...

It will also depend on when the hops were added to the boil. The more hops added early in the hop schedule the more bitter it will be (measured in IBU). Hops that are added late will contribute to the floral/citrusy/tropical aromas and flavours you experience and will not affect the bitterness...

+1 for letting it sit. If you leave it in the fermenter after it is done it will be fine as long as you keep it sealed. The gases fill up the headroom of the fermenter keeping air and other nasties out. That said once you have your consecutive readings there's also no reason you can't then...

From what I've learnt, adding the honey during the boil (or even at flameout) will give a higher abv, but as the sugars in the honey will be eaten by the yeast, it will lose most of its honey flavour. (Obviously you still have the honey malt for that). If you want the local honey to have more of...

If you're going for a black IPA would it be better to use a crystal malt with a high degrees L rating? I'm fairly new to brewing (and haven't done a black IPA, but to me 60L seems pretty light. Just my $0.02