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They are probably centrifuging the beer and then adding back priming sugar and conditioning yeast (such as CBC1) to bottle condition. There are a lot of things you can work on to get clearer though. Properly managing PH during the mash and boil, recirculating/vorlaufing the mash, separating hot...

If your bar is open to the public and for profit, you need to check your local laws before using gas from a local welding shop. There are different grades of CO2 and N2, and local laws may require that you use a specific grade (ex. Food grade). Your best option would be to ask the other of...

Ya. I’d probably back that down to 60% or so, since you’re filling the balance of the grainbill with Vienna. If you were using pils, I’d say you could get away with 65% or so.

That’s probably going to be closer to a dunkel flavor wise.

53/40/4.5/2.5% Barke Munich/Barke Pils/Carahell/Caramunich II to about 1.055.

The first sign of oxidation in NEIPA is color darkening. After that, you start noticing that the hops seem a bit more muted, then it takes on a candy sweetness, then you start to get to the more traditional signs of oxidation (ex. Cardboard).

If you have the ability to purge headspace after adding the priming solution, that is absolutely the best practice (on my system I do). You are correct that yeast aren't a barrier to oxygen, but ACTIVE yeast uptake dissolved oxygen incredibly quickly (in as little as 20 minutes) and once that...

There are a myriad of factors that could explain the variance bottle to bottle: fill level (headspace), chill time, storage temperature, storage location, bottle type (though I am assuming that they are using the same size bottles), slight differences in carbonation, sanitation. Fermenter...

You're oxidizing the beer at filling. You need to cold crash (preferably under pressure to avoid oxygen suck-back), allow the beer to warm back up to room temperature, add your priming sugar directly to the fermenter, wait 1-2 hours (until you start to get a little airlock activity, and then...

^This. Running the beer down the side of the keg + shaking oxygen into the beer from the headspace + force carbing with impure bottled CO2 (ie. not 100% pure, fermentation derived CO2) could easily kill the flavor and aroma of a NEIPA in 48 hours, even at cold temperatures. There might not even...

Move all of the hot side hops to the whirlpool. That should decrease the bitterness significantly while still retraining the flavor!

I honestly don’t think there is anything particularly special about Pearl malt. You do need it to get in the ballpark of the alchemist character, if that’s what you’re shooting for. Compared to Golden promise, pearl has head retention and isn’t as sweet. Compared to maris otter it’s more...

Welcome to the rabbit hole!

Where is that brew sheet? I would say that could be in the ballpark. I'm in Iowa, so I don't have any Heady to compare to. Mine is just calculated at 400, so it's hard to say where the final numbers worked out. I brew low oxygen, so my beers tend to come out less bitter and with more malt...

I have never used lactose in a beer before, so I can’t say!

I don’t remember if it was in here, but I recall hearing an interview where John says he can/sometimes will push the sulfate that high in his IPA’s: I’ve been slowly working up to it on all my NEIPA’s, even ones that are supposed to be “Juicy”. I started out trying 225ppm, then bumped up to...

Decided to do a single malt Pearl/Dextrose IIPA with Conan, you know, for science. I hopped this one with 40ibu of extract to bitter and Summit/Idaho 7 in the whirlpool/dry hop. I would say the malt character is a perfect starting point for Heady/Focal/Crusher. Mine came out much softer and...

I'm glad the grain bill and hop schedule worked out well for you! That looks like a really delicious beer! I just finally pulled the last two pints of mine last night and it held up really well until the last glass (I naturally carbed with CBC1). I really wouldn't change this grain bill at all...

Any time the fermenter is opened, post fermentation, O2 will be introduced to the beer very rapidly. Do you mind if I ask what the purpose of 4 separate dry hop additions is?

If it were me, I would just preload the primary fermenter with oak chips, and then brew/ferment a NEIPA as normal. You'd have about 2 weeks contact time, give or take. Transferring to secondary and opening the fermenter multiple times are a surefire way to ruin NEIPA.