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Just got mine in the mail yesterday. It took less than a week from order to door step. It's a beast of a cord - great deal.

This is helpful. In terms of regular receptacles, etc., where have folks found the best deals? Ebay? I take it I'm just looking for L6-30 regular receptacles.

But if the receptacle is locking, why would it matter if it's flanged or regular? I've found "regular locking receptacles for quite a bit cheaper than flanged. So, that should work, right?

Are flanged receptacles necessary? Couldn't "regular" receptacles be used? I've looked at L6-30 flanged receptacles (I'm using 220V) and they are more than double the price of a "regular" one. Is there any good reason to go with the flanged type?

Okay, so if the dryer cord is 4-prong, then not only will it work but I'll get 120V in the panel, too, to run pumps, etc. I'll go with a 4-prong dryer cord.

More newbie questions: Is there a good reason not to use a regular 4-prong, 30 amp, dryer cord from the dryer 220V outlet to a spa panel and then another 4-prong dryer cord to the control panel? Thanks, TC

Ah, seeing a cord with two male plugs clears up my confusion about a plug still being "hot" - not good. As for the other question, I'll only be running one element at a time.

Very helpful - thanks! Yet, I don't understand how an unplugged cord could still have "hot" plugs. How do you check for that?

Hi all, I'm putting together parts for my e-brewery. After doing some searches, including looking at Kal's website, on receptacle and plugs, I'm still somewhat confused. I'm using my dryer outlet for the power source and will use two 5500W elements. So, are L6-30 receptacles and plugs...

I'm looking for the best price on receptacles for my control panel (so receptacles for main power sources - 4 prong from the dryer outlet, elements - 5500W - and pumps). I don't need locking receptacles. Instead, I'm looking to save a little money here. Thanks, Todd

So, I need 10/4 to the control panel, too? From the contro panel, can I run 10/3 to the elements? I'm running 220V and 5500W elements.

I'm looking for a 10/4 cord to go from my four-prong dryer outlet to a spa panel and then from teh spa panel to my control box. I'm assuming I can use 10/4 from the outlet to the spa panel and then 10/3 from the spa panel to the control panel - right? So I found this 10/4 cord (with four prong...

I love the bottle cap idea, but how'd you get each bottle cap so flat? If you open a bottle, doesn't the cap get pretty bent?

Good advice. I posted on Craigslist earlier and am eagerly awaiting.

Hey all, I live in Grand Rapids, MI. Does anybody in my location have a sanke-style keg for sale? I screwed up my current BK and need to convert another keg into a kettle. Thanks, Todd

Okay, I'm apparently slow on the uptake, but thanks for pointing out the 1" thread for the element. So, this should work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSKZJO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Thoughts? I'm assuming the element will attach with the female threads and I'll be able to run the...

I know I'm dragging this out, but what you guys think of this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSL3JA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 It looks like it will take the element and function as a weldless bulkhead. Thoughts?

Okay, good advice. I'm leaning toward the spud for Bobby. But, Bobby, you mention that the element has to be straight - I take it so that it can screwed and unscrewed from the spud without hitting the bottom of the keg. Unfortunately, I have a spiral one (Camco 5500W - the one Kal uses), so I...

So what if I got two washers that are 2" OD and 1 1/4" ID, putting one on the outside wall of the key and one on the inside wall of the keg? I could then use the outlet box on the outside to provide resistance and then use the nut on the inside to tighten things up. Shouldn't that be water...

Thanks for the help. So with the welding spud, what gets welded to what and where? Also, so if I use the 1" punch that I have, it sounds like I'll get the size I need for the other kettle's element - right? Thanks again, Todd