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ok. i think i'll buy one of these and put a cable sleeve on it. this would bypass the male connection as well. looks like here is a cable sleeving tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNA2pkcrSMc

that's a really good idea. how did you add the nylon sleeve? I googled, but could find a tutorial. did you just put it over the SS braided cable or did you use one of their regular cables and put a sleeve on that?

i fixed the photo in the previous post. i'm new to soldering. i'm thinking i'll just buy a new cable. after reading ray's issues i'll double check the new cable and maybe add a little solder to it. thank you all for the help.

i found your thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/fluctuating-temps-troubleshooting-advice-needed-487132/ this is very similar behavior that I saw at first.

one other quick question - is there any reason why i couldn't reuse the connectors and make my own cable? Here is a picture of the connectors connected to the current cable: it's pretty low gauge wire. seems like something just smaller than 18 gauge.

that makes total sense. one of the wires inside the braided steel and teflon sheath is probably broken. likely one or both of the red wires. that would explain why i'm not getting continuity on wire 3. still not sure why i'm getting continuity when i test across pin 1 and 3. does the...

I'm thinking that a kink in the cable may have rubbed off the protective sheathing inside. maybe there is a short between the two red wires inside the cable. this may be causing me to get continuity between two different pins - it's just coincidence that they're both red, maybe? my only...

hi everyone. thanks in advance for the help. I'm an electric noob, but I've built a an electric rims tube/natural gas hybrid system. i was brewing yesterday and I ran into a problem with the reading from my RTD in my RIMS tube. It was reading really high. at first only about 30 degrees...

Where did you get that huge can lock for the rims tube element?

it works fine. mine is bolted to some square metal tubing i drilled holes in to mount. i usually don't have it articulated when pushing buttons, etc.

as we speak, I'm about 20 minutes into my mash on the first brew with my upgraded system. my system's a hybrid so it uses gas for all the heavy lifting, but a small electrical water heater element to maintain mash temps in a RIMS tube. i use gas to direct fire the mash tun to get it to...

Sold Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Home Brew mobile app

bump and price reduction. will take $65 shipped

Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. Do you use normal home depot bath kitchen silicon?

Here is my setup- operating on 120v, PID controlled RIMS pre-owned BobbyM/Brewhardware.com pre-triclover setup 4inch rtd previous owner had a short 1500W ultra low density element - it's rusted a bit i was thinking of putting in a 4500W LOW (instead of ultra low) density element...

thermapen - for brewing and grilling. what a nice wife. something I would have never bought myself b/c of the price tag.

$70 plus actual USPS shipping from 87123. should fit in a small or medium flat rate box. also willing to trade for pump. straight up for solar pump with SS fittings (like breweh) or with cash from me for a chugger/march or cash from you for an ebay tan pump. originally purchased here...

i ended up wiring back in the thermostat switch/relay, but I cut out the lamp part of the circuit. i haven't tried it with the controller yet, but it was 57 in my garage and after running it for 45 minutes, I was able to get it down to 35. just need to add in the computer fans for...

Thanks. I would have never thought if that if it weren't for this forum. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Home Brew mobile app

hi everyone. i hacked up an old fridge that my brother in law gave me. after seeing a cooler that someone had inserted some old fridge guts (freezer box, compressor) i was originally going to use ice/fans and at ST1000 controller box. this should be easier - no ice, but will obviously use...