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So it's about 7 lbs of amber LME with an ounce of Cascade hop pellets and an 11g packet of Nottingham. Which location did you buy it at?

Working at a HBS would be a lot of fun. I'm wondering if my LHBS needs to keep later hours...:)

You really should rack to a bottling bucket. Boil the sugar water, put it in the bottling bucket and then siphon the beer from your primary onto the sugar water. This will allow the sugar to get good and evenly mixed. When you just dump it into the fermenter, if you don't stir, your...

hmmm...interesting. On my capper, where the body of the capper meets the neck of the bottle, there is a half circle of metal on each side. When I move the handles in a downward motion, these grip the bottle and then the bell descends and pushes the cap on. Edit: if I push hard enough on the...

If you are a member of a Sam's Club, they have really good prices on aluminum stock pots.

A bench capper uses downward force to cap, whereas the butterfly capper relies on a metal fitting that clamps around the neck of the bottle and secures under the lip. If the lip is too high, you can't put the cap on.

Bench capper should work. It's only really an issue with the winged cappers.

Is it the beginners amber kit from Beer at Home by any chance?

Make a light honey wheat....will be good as a lawnmower beer come summer.

60-62 should have been fine, it's within the range of us-05. 9% seems a bit high for a beer with an OG of 1.070. With most beers finishing in the mid teen range, you would have to have an OG of around 1.085 to reach that ABV, or ferment out to around 1.000, which is awfully dry for a beer.

With an OG of 1.070 and a FG of 1.025, the alcohol content is around 5.8% ABV. With the addition of the maple syrup, I'm guessing you may have bumped that up to about 6-6.2% ABV. I can't find the alcohol tolerance of us-05, but I'd be really surprised if 6% was high enough to kill the yeast...

For a brewpot, the minimum would be a 4 gallon (16 qt) stock pot. They can usually be found for around $30-40. However, the bigger you can get, the better. If you can swing for a 24-30 qt stock pot (or larger), then it will serve you better in the long run. Keep in mind though, you will be...

Also, check out Mr Malty Pitching Rate Calculator for info on how much yeast, what size starter, etc... to use. Mr. Malty is a great resource.

I have one of those glass, flattop stoves as well. It looks really pretty and the SWMBO loves it, but it sucks for brewing. My stove has an option to turn on a middle element between the burners, so what I've done is turn on both the front and back burners as well as the middle element. I put...

Yes, so it did kick up a little bit again and it succeed in dropping it by about .007 within two days. After that it stayed at 1.027 for three days. I finally decided to bottle it on Saturday evening. The Nottingham did dry it out a bit, as it wasn't nearly as sweet as it was before, however...

Thanks Dan. It may be too late for yeast nutrients, but would it be too late for yeast energizer? My only fear in letting it go until it clears is that my second carboy will be in use for many months at this rate!

Awesome! The fastest start I've had was 6-8 hours.

Use a starter or pitch 3 vials. Otherwise, you run the risk of stressing the yeast, which could mean off flavors or a stuck fermentation. Just remember, the yeast are your friends, you want them to be happy. :)

I have an Oatmeal Milk Stout in primary with WLP002 and it took off really quickly, but then stalled out at 1.034 for a while. I tried to stir it and it didn't do any good. The yeast did resuspend, but then within a day fell back down again. I don't think the stirring hurt it, but I don't...

I have an Oatmeal Milk Stout in primary with WLP002 and it took off really quickly, but then stalled out at 1.034 for a while. I tried to stir it and it didn't do any good. The yeast did resuspend, but then within a day fell back down again. I don't think the stirring hurt it, but I don't...