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Ive got a fridge full of while cone hops....some zip locked, some vacuum sealed, some never even opened in sealed 1lb bricks.......that have been in my fridge for 1-2 years.......should I expect these to he usable? Just fine? Less potent? Dkwn Right Nasty?

I understand the benefit of doing a starter fro dry yeast, but what about smack packs, washed cakes, etc.....should I always do a starter? And should I boil some DME with water to create the starter or is just water to hydrate good enough?

Ok I have experimented with harvesting and reusing yeast in the past.....but I would like to make sure Im doing this right. Basically Im just boiling some water, cooling it to room temp, then mixing it in with he yeast cake while still in the primary and running it out the spicket in to a...

Just protecting the beer from the light given off by the bulb. The glass carboy is clear and I fear that the light may penetrate and alter the beer in some way....maybe overcautios? Thats why I was asking about alternate ways to heat it up.

And what about hearing the chamber when it is cold outside? Ive got a light bulb inside of it and it seems to be doing the trick.....any better ideas though?

I currently have the probe just dangling there in the air.....and a strip thermometer stuck to the outside of the vessel.....not sure how accurate those are though. The important temp is the liquid though, not the air, correct?

Haha I have a Keezer right next to it already [emoji106]

Ya just curious why it would stay in solution in the primary.....seems like if its not under pressure (like in a bottle or keg) that the co2 should escape.....but some apparently stays in it.....weird

Just purchased a large freezer and converted it to a fridge so I can dial it to appropriate fermentation temperatures.....Im sure the temp of the beer in the actual fermenter will be slightly higher than the temp of the air in the fridge.....but how much? I imagine depending on the yeast used...

Just curious if anyone has any experience using 5.2 mash ph stabilizer and how much of a difference it can make in your brew.....I have never tested my water without it and have never used it......any input?

From time to time when I go to rack my beer from my primary plastic bucket to a secondary carboy, the beer is already carbonated.....to varying degrees depending on the batch.......Anyone have any idea what the reasoning would be for that?

I keep my kegs at about 38 degrees and my psi between 10 and 14 depending on the style of beer. I have thus far dialed the psi down to 3 or 4 for bottling and filled the bottles as close to full as possible. I will try cooling my kegs down to maybe 33-34 degrees and/or dialing up the psi a few...

Hello all, I have a 4 keg system for dispening my glorious homebrew......i recently acquired a Blichmann Beer Gun to use for bottling the brews straight from my kegs. Although I have only used it 2 times and I understand I may need some refining as to the process, both batches I have bottled...

What might be the benefits of a stainless strainer or a hop spider over simple old fashioned disposable hop socks? Seems to me like just another thing to clean.

I am using the march 809HS. It is an older pump but I was still suprised it clogged up. The inlet and outlet themselves did not plug but rather the hops got snashed around and wrapped aroundbthe impeller. I will look into a hop spider and see if that may be a solution. Thanks.

I just got done brewing a batch that was to be the first one cooled using my new pump and plate chiller. It did not go as planned. My pump clogged up immediately with hops and after unassembling it, unclogging it, reassembling it and deciding that it was no longer sanitary, I reboiled my wart...

I agree.....why might it be more applicable in a larger system? Like the 7-20bbl system you mentioned?