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The circular paper that lists the PSI level in my gauge has come somewhat dislodged. Anyone know how to open up the gauge so I can attempt to put it back in place? Can't seem to figure it out. See pic below. Jesse

I'm getting ready to transfer a 5-gallon IPA out of primary and into two 3-gallon corny kegs. After doing some reading on dry hopping, I am planning on using pellet hops in a stainless tea ball dropped right into my serving keg and keeping it in there as long as is necessary, perhaps even after...

Let me first of all say that the spirit of every response I've received in the short time I have frequented HB Talk has been one of helpfulness. So while I do not know enough about the rudiments of proper co2 usage to know who is right and who is wrong in this type of thing, I do sincerely...

My beer line is 5 feet, frig temp is 36*. Took my serving pressure down to 5psi for the day and that seemed to do the trick when I poured a pint this eve. If I leave the pressure that low will I get flat beer eventually? Should I lengthen my beer line and up the pressure back to 10-12psi?

I just finished with my 2 1/2 days of force carbonating each of my 2 kegs at 30psi. I have reduced the pressure to 10psi for serving and while the beer seems to be appropriately carbonated, I am getting very, very foamy pours. Little tiny bubbles are gathering at the top of my beer line close...

And how do you know the temp during the first days of heavy fermentation, before you would want to take a temperature reading of the brew? Also, does this heat evenly, or does that matter?

What do you mean by a "heat belt"?

I live in Northern California and the temp in my house when the heat is not on is in the high 50s to low 60s during the day and drops into the mid to low 50s at night. I'm about to brew my first batch during the winter and was wondering if there are any secrets to maintaining the correct temps...

Does the amount of brew I'm force carbonating matter in terms of the amount of time necessary at 30psi? So if I'm carbonating 2 1/2 gallons, should I still do it for 2 days?

I normally buy a bunch of bags of ice to cool my brew pot in my kitchen sink. What about just getting an extra bag and pouring it into the cooling wort? I would, of course, make sure I do not add too much. Any possible problems with that?

If this is a ridiculous question, please excuse me, but I was wondering if one could assist their wort cooling by adding water to it instead of just cooling the brew pot in ice (I don't have a wort chiller)? So, if I boiled my batch with 3 gallons of water, could I raise it up to 5-gallons by...

Dropped my 6.5 gallon carboy while cleaning it last weekend. Luckily I was outside, so the mess was a bit more manageable, but it was a depressing moment. Bucket would have bounced. Score one for the bucket.

Awesome. Thanks for this tips, Scoundrel.

How about this for my 5-gallon batch/two 3-gallon kegs/1-keg fitting kegerator/1 co2 and regulator question at the top of this thread? Keg #1: fill it, purge it of oxygen, hit it with 30psi in the kegerator for 2 days, then store it in my kitchen fridge until done with keg #2. Keg #2: fill...

And at 30psi hooked up to a tank and regulator, how long does it take to force carbonate?

If I just purge the CO2, but don't force carbonate at 30psi, and let it sit, am I risking anything? Or does that just mean I will need to force carbonate prior to tapping it?

Goldiggie - I've got a small converted dorm fridge. Might be able to get the 2nd keg in there if I were to put the CO2 outside the fridge.

And no refrigeration necessary?

Ive got a 5-gallon batch of American Amber fermenting. When she's ready to go, I've got two 3-gallon Corny Kegs that I will fill evenly. My kegerator can only fit one at a time, so my question is this: with the keg I am not drinking right away, should I pressurize at force carbonation levels and...