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+1. Amen to that. The inside of the banana isn't mating grounds for bacteria until the peel has been compromised. As long as it goes from peel to secondary there should be no problems. As far as steaming them and squirting star san on them. Im afraid that is going to throw a little unwanted...

If anyone cares I ferment for 1 week and bottle for one week. Never had a problem with it.

Mash in is where you add the water. Mash out is where you add hot water to raise temp to 170. This stops the saccharification process.

Absolutely. I was trying to keep it on topic.

StAnthony, You could try it with the coffee or do 2lb grain in 1 gal water and split it in half. However you want its all good. Just recommendations. I do something similar to BIAB and it works just fine for me. I mostly do medium gravity beers though.

+1 Sea Summit. Consistent readings are the key to knowing when you are ready to bottle. If you want a lower FG add some amylase. Otherwise enjoy your beer in a week.

How much water did you use?

If so then I am making really bad beer. If you are going to soak it in the sparge water make sure it is at 170 and not 155. You can seep as long as you aren't running the sparge water over the top of the grain. Its going to be VERY difficult to over sparge by seeping. Try it out and see what you...

+1 SAMC. Its going to be expensive to get it to code. Go to the engineering office at your local town hall for codes.

If you like it try it. I use frozen bottles. 4 for 3 gals of wort. Right before I put them in the hot wort I soak the bottle in Iodophor and let sit for 5 mintues. Rinse and dunk one at a time in. They usually last 5 minutes or so before I replace with a new one. Then refreeze. Im running...

+1. Nasty nasty tannins. You have ruined my beer. Try the BIAB method. Put your grain in a bag in the mash tun. Drain the tun as wanted or simply pull the bag out and run the mash over the bag in the lauter tun. Voila. Pretty much the same thing except you do all 10# instead of 2 at a time.

The reason you want it in the secondary is so it further breaks down available sugars. As an example. When you a finished in the primary typical gravity for a 053 mash is around 012 with 05 SafAle. Thats all becasue of attenuation of the yeast. That means there is 012 more sugars left in the...

JLem. I do no-sparge grain in a bag and run at about 70%. I use 5-6 lbs of grain and 4 gals preboil volume. To date, I have made several perfectly stable beers at about 4% each time, standard commercial ABV.

Why don't you try bottling just one beer and let it sit for a few days. If no bomby then bottle the rest.

Burt, If you are boiling in it then you do not have to sanitize. The only things you sanitize are things that touch the wort after the boil and during fermentation.

http://www.fivestarchemicals.com/tech/starsan.pdf You shouldn't have issues. It won't make you sick. The reason they tell you not to use on plastic is because it can melt plastic at high concentrations. No worries.

Amen!!!!!:tank:

Use method two. With method one you get a completely different beer. As an example in a 5 gal batch 8 oz of 20 L Crystal has an SRM of 2. Your talking major differences of flavor and color at half a pound difference in specialty grain.

We know were your minds are that's for sure.

I did about 4 LME kits then moved straight to all grain. Partials are to involved and complex for me man. AG is really technical but if you keep it simple they are much easier than partials.