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I guess they are rate for up to 250V but it said they are to be used with 3wire configurations. 1 line, 1 nuetrel, 1 ground... Most people are running 240 4 wire configurations.

These look way better than the switchcraft speakon connectors, too bad they would only work for 120V set ups...perfect for, but not most electric brewers using 240V.

Hate to bug you, but how about this one then? It has a 40A SSR. How do I know which PID's will work? Seems like so many different ones and why are the so much cheaper than Auber? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087O6T10/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Could I use this setup http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-PID-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-SSR-J-S-K-E-Thermocouple-Heat-Sink-/280879140931?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4165b39043

With the PWM do I still need the SSR and Heat Sink? As you can tell I am not very electrically inclined. Where do I get the PWM and which one?

Planning a very basic Electric BK set up. The BK is the only thing I will need to heat as it doubles as my HLT. I am going to have 240v run from 30 amp breaker out to garage free of charge. Planning on either a 4500w or 5500w heating element in my Boil Keggle. What do I have to do to control...

Use your BK as HLT, collect runnings into food grade plastic pails... About 3 bucks from Walmart. I use this method for 5 and 10 gallon batches. I have a keggle I built for BK and mash tun

Hops and cold break aren't necessarily a bad thing going into the fermentor... Can be positive for fermentation, only down fall is if you harvest yeast from primary

Stir the crap out of mash before you start collecting your runnings. Also invest in a false bottom, assuming you are using ss braid. Higher temps for sparge water 180 going in should get you closer to 168 after you stir the crap out of it! Let the mash rest for about 10 min after stirring before...