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You need to specify a $ amount. There are several methods of going all grain, and they all have different monetary levels.

heck yea it does. I feel like I have my process down pretty good now too. It took me 5 hours even from flame on to clean up

I had 3 extra bottles from my first batch...an all extract Newcastle Brown Ale clone. They were sitting in my garage for about 18 months. Exposed to the summer heat and winter cold. I drank them and they were great.

A bench capper....woot.

I might have a wing style capper for sale :)

I think most recipes that say 5 gallons are aimed at ending with 5 gallons in the primary. I usually shoot to have 5.5 gallons in the kettle at the end, and transfer about 5.25 or so to the primary. So I adjust recipes accordingly.

I say +10 to the Auto-Siphon and -1 to each of those options. I don't like blowing into the beer. I mean there is a tiny chance of contaminating it with your breath, but its still a chance...unless you are blowing through a filter. As far as using sanitizing solution to get started...what...

Thanks! Yea, I forgot to take the hydrometer reading, and I already transferred everything to the fermentor and pitched the yeast. I use a turkey baster, and I hadn't sanitized it either, so I wasn't sticking that in the fermentor...so I tried sucking the remaining beer out of the sludge...

Well, here are some pics and the recipe from my last AG. This was my second AG attempt and I hit all the temps pretty closely. My OG was 1.060, so that's only 3 points higher than expected. Quickquestion....hop matter in the hydrometer tube should not affect the reading, correct? Anyway...

I may be wrong, but I dont think you should have it hooked up to gas if you primed it. Also 3/4 cup is too much for bulk conditioning. Take if off the gas and vent it until it stops venting. Wait a day and vent again....repeat for 2 weeks. Then hook it to gas. I think you should only...

The disconnects have little rubber O-Rings in them. Make sure it's still in there. I took apart my disconnects to clean them and lost one of the o-rings(the beer side). I didn't know it tho and when I connected it, beer was squirting out of the top of the disconnect. I ran to the LHBS and...

Sounds like you did it right. It's not necessary to purge the keg with CO2 anyway....when you prime the keg, it will create CO2. Just purge it occasionally and your headspace of oxygen is gone! Just out of curiosity, how much priming sugar did you use in the keg?

Huh? I thought cask conditioned ale is carbonated...just a lot less than us North American's are used to....about 1 volume??? I mean, it has to carb some when they stick it in the cask and seal it...right?

Thanks! Sounds like a good plan. I figure the longer conditioning in the bottle will make a better beer rather than just letting it clear in the primary. Good catch on the higher temp too!

thanks, but kegging wasn't an option in this scenario and neither was buying someone else's beer.

I was bored today (as usual) so I was thinking what would be better. If you brewed today, and you needed this beer to be bottled and ready in 5 weeks, would it be better to leave in the primary for 3 weeks, and bottle for 2, or primary for 2 weeks and bottle for 3. I usually leave my beers...

My LHBS has about 20 of them. Dont know what to tell ya.

Looks tasty. If it were me I'd back off the 120 a bit and throw in some Victory or Biscuit...but that's just me. I like caramel flavor, but not toasted caramel.

Maybe you just need to redefine your definition of a properly carbed beer :) Just kidding. That should be plenty of priming sugar tho. I just bottled an English Bitter and I used about 2.75 Oz of Corn Sugar. I did not weigh it however, I scooped out 5.5 even tablespoons, which should be...

Exactly....Note, 15PSI isn't that high when it's at 65 degrees or whatever.