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The suspense is killing me, I can't wait to hear how the first batches are after ferm. and bottling/kegging. My money is burning a hole in my pocket lol.

Good to hear, that's a relief. I was worried about having to go with 20ft lines for each keg. Thanks for the replies.

@jbb3 awwsome man, think this is the route I’ll go as well. Did you only go 5 feet on the lines like you mentioned?

I know this is a super old thread, but @jbb3 how did it work out with the Bev-Seal Ultra and the flow control taps?

@day_trippr Wondering if you could help me putting together the items for how you setup this bulkhead with the ball lock disconnects. It'd have the ball lock QD outside the fridge, and a hose barb on the inside. Does this look correct? The Bulkhead -...

Just in case anyone else is interested in this kind of setup, I found another good thread on using a bulkhead going through the sidewall of a fridge, specifically post #5 with the pics (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/keezer-collar-bulkhead-fitting-for-gas.601063/#post-7874250). Off...

Got it, now I understand how all the hardware works in your picture. Thank you for the help on this one!

Perfect, those are a great solution. Found this thread on HBT (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/keezer-gas-bulkhead-solution.464092/) using the same bulkhead, with all the hardware listed out in the first post with a picture. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you went with...

Great to hear! Sounds like I'll be pullling the trigger on a primary reg with the wye later today. Thank you for your help on this one. How'd you go about "injecting" the co2 line into that fridge? Looks like in the pic those are the QDs you were referencing. I know some folks just drill out...

Hey Guys, so this is probably a pretty dumb question, but it's regarding if a primary regulator has a Wye on it, (like...

I’ll give them a shout and see what they say!

Only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on the spin cycle is that it’s permanently attached, and it’d Interfere with my basket during the mash. I think I’ve got it about figured out how to make a “modular” one. Great to hear though that this idea works like I thought it might!

Anybody know of a whirlpool arm like this (http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-1.5-Inch-Custom-Whirlpool-Arm.html) that instead of the outer TC connection would have the capability of having a camlock type A on it? ***Or, I may just be better off using this from Bobby, just...

Ok, good to know. Thank you BrunDog.

Well, that’s unfortunate about the 208v aspect. That only leaves the 120v/1,800 watt manual model. Would that be capable of boiling volumes up to 6 gallons (I actually usually do 2.5 gallon batches, so 3-4 gallon pre-boil volume)?

Yeah, unless it’s rated 208-240v or something, which I didn’t find any specs on in their product listing. I’d imagine it’s probably not.

Hey Everyone! I know that this topic has been discussed over the past few years, and from what I found, it seemed like there isn't an "easy" way to accomplish getting an induction plate to run on a controller, like a PID or an EZboil. I had read in one thread here (that I can't find again now)...

Good to know about that 6-8% range, I hadn't heard that before. And yes, with my MKII pump and setup, there definitely wasn't a lack of suction (NPSH). Like I was mentioning above, Brundog's Kettle Condenser might be a solution to most of my issues, mainly keeping temps and condensation...

Subbed for sure! Just did my first brew on a new electric kit, and two big issues were not being able to maintain a boil while recirculating and the large amount of condensate I was getting on my kitchen ceiling. It looks like this condenser idea may solve both. Can't wait to see some more of...

Further prevent scorching, less stratification of temps, hopefully more hop utilization.