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I've read through most of this thread over the past few months and decided to give this approach a try on my next brew day. I've got one question (probably more later) on the process: what's the most effective way of pitching yeast? I've seen two approaches mentioned here: 1. Remove...

You should be able to switch either the input or output of the SSR. In my system I switch the output so I can directly control whether the heater is connected or not. I don't know what the most common failure modes for SSRs are, but switching the output protects against the SSR failing in the...

The SYL4342 in the original post has relay connector outputs rated to 1200 watts, but I wanted to use a 1500 watt heater. Edit: Upon closer examination of the circuit in the OP, I don't see how it could work. It has pins 7 and 8 hooked directly to an Auber DC-triggerd SSR. However, pins 7 and...

I hope it works out for you; glad to help. Not sure what you mean by "difference in control"...however, I wanted to be able to program a step mash, so I chose the 2352P PID for programmability; I wanted the heater enabled only when pump was active, so changed the wiring. I also added a switch...

Correct; you have to be careful about the current rating of the switches - many are only rated at 10A. I sourced these 20A illuminated switches: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q84W62/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 During my initial testing I saw only about 11A on the heater and 2A on the pump...

Here's what I put together. The switches have built-in indicator lights when energized. Buzzer sounds at end of mashout (w/proper programming of PID). 15A circuit breaker. Heater disabled when pump turned off. Pump controllable independently.

Sippin37: It really depends on how you have your alarm wiring set up. What problem are you having? It wasn't clear from your message what the issue is. If you have the AL2 relay terminal (terminal 14) wired to activate buzzers or lights, then yes it could sound during the initial heating with...

Sold...

Sold...

I'm going higher volume and need to sell my "Short" 7.3 Gallon Conical Fermenter from Stout Tanks and Kettles. This comes with the butterfly valve upgrade (2x), 3 tri-clamps and gaskets, sanitary hose barb. More details here: http://conical-fermenter.com/products/conicals/ New, this runs...

I'm going higher volume and need to sell my 9.2 gallon stainless brew kettle with thermowell from Stout Tanks and Kettles. This comes with the butterfly valve upgrade, 2 tri-clamps and gaskets, sanitary hose barb, thermometer, lid. More details here...

Ahh...I see how that would work. Perfect. No return port on my kettle, so hose was just going in through the top. Now I just have to upgrade my kettle to get a tri-clamp return port.... :)

I see --- this is different from the approach I'm thinking about. I'd like to connect the RIMS tube directly to the kettle output, avoiding the need for a hose between the kettle and pump.

Wouldn't that make PID control difficult -- sensor would come before heating element. Makes for a long feedback loop through the kettle...

I'm putting together an electric RIMS system for my gas-fired BIAB, tri-clamp system and have a plumbing question: In most plumbing schematics I've seen, the kettle output is connected to the pump; the pump then feeds the RIMS tube. This requires 3 silicon hoses - kettle-pump, pump-RIMS...

The programmable version (SYL-2352P) can be cryptic at first; be sure you download and read part 2 of the instructions which focuses on the programming model. I had to read through both manuals 2-3 times before I understood, and then ended up sending an email to check/clarify. Hopefully I'll be...

I'd like the code